Black Hole  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  chris deulen on Aug 16, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Black Hole is called such for good reason as this short dihedral tends to suck its victims in. This technique is actually probably the best way to climb it, as any movement out sends one's legs to dangle over the left-angling, small shelf that accompanies the crack. Thin, especially towards the top. If this were 30 feet longer it would probably be a Colorado classic, but it is still a great climb nonetheless. A piton can be found at the top of the slab that leads up to the crack. There is another towards the end of the crack as well. Slings are recommended for the anchors as there are set back over the edge a bit around the left exit arete.

Location 

This is the furthest left climb at Little Eiger, and I mean THE furthest left. Around the corner, past the last bolted climb, up the hill a bit, and under a tree is where the start for Black Hole and Black Haul is. They are the short and obvious two cracks that lead out from this stance.

Protection 

1-2 #.75, 1-2 #1, 1 #2, nuts, draws, slings for the anchors.