Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: P1: Tony Puppo & Grant Schumacher - February, 1995P2: Tony Puppo & Joe Rousek - 1994
Page Views: 4,802 total · 23/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Warning Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Black Hole is a long, intimidating, and above all, pumpy route. It begins on the west-facing wall just right of the main buttress of the Solarium at an obvious bolted crack on the face. Climb up a weird little chimney and pull onto the face -- occasionally using the crack for the left hand but generally using face holds. This section ends at a huge ledge with a two-bolt anchor making it a nice pitch in its own right, but it is definitely not easy for 5.10. No bother, because you didn't come here to climb a vertical 5.10, you came here to climb a ridiculously steep 5.12. Put a VERY long sling on the anchor (or skip or backclean this clip) and head up the overhanging headwall. There is a tough section just past two round hueco-like holes where the climb steps up and left, then cuts back right (straight up is possible but very hard), but overall it's the pump that earns this climb the rating.

Protection Suggest change

16 draws. Make sure you have a 70m cord.

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