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Mike Williams on the crux of Black Happy.
This is the second bolt line from the left. Start on small crimps and work straight up to the roof. This one is a bit contrived – moving a couple feet to the right at this point yields a much easier move over the roof and down-rates the climb to about 5.10a, making the lower crimps the crux of the climb. The true crux involves an unlikely move on good crimps with no feet over the bulge, leading to feet with no hands still short of the anchor – harder than 5.11a in my opinion. Walk off left to descend.
3 bolts, bolted anchor
Oct 9, 2009
FA Aaron Rough