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Solar Collector/Gold Coast
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Black Gold 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Bill Ramsey
Page Views: 1,755
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 30, 2010
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Grady on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco

Description 

This beautiful streaked wall offers brilliant, sequential reaches on impeccable crimps. Black Gold is unique from its neighbors in that the holds are virtually all neutral-to-positive, as opposed to the notorious slopey rails found to the right. Although the line appears reachy from the ground, numerous hard-to-see intermediates offer options for all sizes.

Unfortunately the aesthetic look of the wall is attributed to nearly constant water run-off that makes this line a frustrating project. If you are lucky enough to find the wall in good conditions, seize the opportunity to enjoy one of the best 13+ routes at the Red.

Begin far to the right, mantling onto a big sandy ledge. Move left, clip the first draw, then make 3-4 big moves up a heavily featured pillar to a no-hands rest in an alcove. Move left from the alcove ("God's Own Stone" heads right) up sharp orange stone, making a big reach to a good pocket. Traverse straight left to enter the black streak, then bolt up & left on great patina crimps to reach a protruding tongue. Make big cranks on square-cut full-pad crimps to reach the obvious hole near the 7th bolt. Cruxy moves lead left to the big hueco and a much-needed shake. Another big reach gains the next rail; move right, clip, then up to a big sloping edge. Make a hard crank off a tiny crimp, or dyno for the next rail. A few easier moves lead to big jugs at the anchor.


Location 

At the far left end of the main Gold Coast wall, climbing a wide, double black streak.


Protection 

8 bolts, 2BA.



Photos of Black Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Grady on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Grady on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Black Gold climbs the arcing line of draws through the wide black streak.
Black Gold climbs the arcing line of draws through...
Grady on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Grady on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Grady on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Grady on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Grady on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Grady on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
Mark on Black Gold. photo by Anthony Carco
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