Black Gate  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Burgess Norrgard on Nov 5, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Private property MORE INFO >>> Make sure to check in with Wolf Ridge ELC to let them know you are climbing and stick to established trails. Wolf Ridge is happy to let climbers use their property but avoid the beach if there are groups/children and do not use any of their gear (canoes, backboard, etc.) This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

(from the Falcon Guide) "In the world of the verticle, how can something so horizontal be so troubling? 12' right of the overhang is a thin crack, just left of a large talus block. Up the crack, traverse slightly left, then up to the top"

Beautiful climb! It is a very thin finger crack first going up 40-50ft: First ascends a small left facing corner, then to open face crack, then to a larger right facing corner. The route then traverses to the left following a wide and positive horizontal crack, then continues up the crux a narrow seam/crack up an over a roof topping out another 20 ft up. Falcon Guide rates it 5.10a... but I think in reality it's closer to an 5.11 or upper level 5.10 (pin scar, pinky finger jams). Go out and climb it and decide for yourself!

Location 

Left of the Cithril Ungol... just left of the the gully up to top of "Jack Be Nimble", etc...

Protection 

Smaller pro... small nuts, cams no bigger than a #1 camalot (if that), as I recall. BD C3's/ Aliens would be very handy. I believe it would be a challenging lead, but I'm more than certain that it has been done.