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Routes in Mystical Mountain Zone
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Advice From A Caterpillar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Gate T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cirith Ungol T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fractured Fairy Tale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gollum's Stairwell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Horner's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jack Be Nimble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mother Goose T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Noah's Arc TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ode to a Newt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Number Nine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Over the Rainbow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Oz Before The Wizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sisyphus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Swords of Zanzibar T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,147 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Burgess Norrgard on Nov 5, 2008 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Access Issue: Private property
Details
Make sure to check in with Wolf Ridge ELC to let them know you are climbing and stick to established trails. Wolf Ridge is happy to let climbers use their property but avoid the beach if there are groups/children and do not use any of their gear (canoes, backboard, etc.)
Description
(from the Falcon Guide) "In the world of the verticle, how can something so horizontal be so troubling? 12' right of the overhang is a thin crack, just left of a large talus block. Up the crack, traverse slightly left, then up to the top"
Beautiful climb! It is a very thin finger crack first going up 40-50ft: First ascends a small left facing corner, then to open face crack, then to a larger right facing corner. The route then traverses to the left following a wide and positive horizontal crack, then continues up the crux a narrow seam/crack up an over a roof topping out another 20 ft up. Falcon Guide rates it 5.10a... but I think in reality it's closer to an 5.11 or upper level 5.10 (pin scar, pinky finger jams). Go out and climb it and decide for yourself!
Beautiful climb! It is a very thin finger crack first going up 40-50ft: First ascends a small left facing corner, then to open face crack, then to a larger right facing corner. The route then traverses to the left following a wide and positive horizontal crack, then continues up the crux a narrow seam/crack up an over a roof topping out another 20 ft up. Falcon Guide rates it 5.10a... but I think in reality it's closer to an 5.11 or upper level 5.10 (pin scar, pinky finger jams). Go out and climb it and decide for yourself!
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