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Black Fork - New NC Climbing Area
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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Nov 23, 2013
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

george wilkey wrote:
what we need is a crag in upstate south Carolina. when I drive down hwy 11 and see rock walls from one end to the other that have been bought up by developers(glassy mtn), are climber unfriendly(table rock), or are completely off limits(jones gap), it breaks my rock climbin' heart! thanks to people like Tom Caldwell we now have some bouldering areas but we really need a good crag. find us a crag, Tommy! north Carolina has more than their share:)!!


There is some legal and illegal climbing on 11. Tr is legit, so is some other stuff by little estatoe. Dont thank me for the bouldering, that is all Brad.


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By george wilkey
From travelers rest sc
Nov 23, 2013
me

yeah, didn't mean to dis brad i'm always confusing you two. I know there's climbing at table rock but the season is short, the approach is heinous, and it's not exactly suited to your average climber. i'm actually baffled as to why climbing is allowed at table rock and not at jones gap which has some great walls and bouldering.


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Nov 23, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

george wilkey wrote:
yeah, didn't mean to dis brad i'm always confusing you two. I know there's climbing at table rock but the season is short, the approach is heinous, and it's not exactly suited to your average climber. i'm actually baffled as to why climbing is allowed at table rock and not at jones gap which has some great walls and bouldering.


quite possibly because TR has a long standing history of developed routes dating back to the 70's...there are definitely routes up by jones gap but i dont think it was as developed or as striking frankly. TR in its entirety is one of the most bad ass 2-7 pitch cliffs in the Eastern US.


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By nbrown
From western NC
Nov 23, 2013
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai


''TR in its entirety is one of the most bad ass 2-7 pitch cliffs in the Eastern US''.


Indeed!


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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Nov 24, 2013

george wilkey wrote:
yeah, didn't mean to dis brad i'm always confusing you two. I know there's climbing at table rock but the season is short, the approach is heinous, and it's not exactly suited to your average climber. i'm actually baffled as to why climbing is allowed at table rock and not at jones gap which has some great walls and bouldering.

I'm honored to be confused with Ten Finger Tom:) I'll speak about climbing access in Jones Gap and Table Rock. The talks with the state parks that Stephen Scoff and I have been in on always hit a couple of snags...

1. Jones Gap has been a priority for a while...with well over 200 bouldering routes and a dozen or so old school roped routes, this is one of the best resources around! The big issue is overuse of the land. Jones Gap gets too much "love" from the general community and sees major impactfrom hikers and campers that additional activities would put more pressure on already stained resources. Also, there are threatened and endangered species that get priority, and there would have to be new trails that would have to be built and Park Service doesn't want additional trails. On top of all of that, the fiasco that has become of The Bald has made them hesitant too. We have gotten a biological survey of all of the established bouldering areas and cliffs completed and have been patiently waiting for a follow up meeting to discuss the next steps. To pile on, our bassackwards state government continues to cut funds for parks and without enough manpower, no park is willing to take on more responsibility.

2. Still waiting for a follow up meeting with Table Rock on extending the season and only closing whenperegrines are nesting...but we're asking for the walls to be open until at least March to catch the best part of the season. We are also asking to open the Panther Gap Wall and bouldering in the park too.

3. Most other lands with possible cliff access are on DNR land...they aren't budging from their no climbing policy because it would take a legal change/rewriting of the states regulations, which would take money, time and effort that the bassackwards governor/government have said they aren't willing to do because of "budget and legal" issues. There are some good crags hidden in the Jocassee Gorges, but most are a bear to get to. I can point you to a couple if you're curious, just pm me. These cliffs are closed but you can always check them out anyway. At least we have around 1600 boulder routes in the Jocassee Gorges:)

Brad


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By george wilkey
From travelers rest sc
Nov 24, 2013
me

hey thanks brad! I, and i'm sure all other sc climbers, really appreciate all the hard work you have done finding and developing the bouldering scene in the upstate. due to a back problem i'm recovering from I have been unable to climb for a few months but have spent some of that time hiking into your boulder fields in the jocassee gorges, really looking forward to getting back into the game soon. I just keep hoping that a previously unknown rumbling bald will be discovered near by:)


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Nov 24, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

If you look on google earth you'll see there isnt a RB around town but smaller stuff abounds. There is a wall in Paris Mountain with some sport routes on it i have been told and shown pictures off. I havent been and am not entirely sure where exactly it is nor can i find it on google earth - may be worth stopping by sunrift and hitting up Frost -- hes a great resource for our area


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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Nov 24, 2013

The Paris Mountain Crag is on private land, to my knowledge. The developer of the routes had permission to put up the routes from the land owner for he and his family to climb there, but its not really anything worth even going to once to be honest with you. I went out there one day with him because he needed a belayer to finish up some of the last routes, and I wasnt that impressed...mainly 5.4 slabs with a tougher 5.6, 5.8, 5.9 & 5.12 slabby boulder problem thrown in on each route. There is another 5.7 30 foot juggy route route that would be good if it wasnt a chossfest and some of the jugs werent falling off. I have no desire to go back again, needless to say.

And thanks for the kind words George!


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Nov 24, 2013
tanuki

I love AZ, but reading this makes me miss the SE.


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By Mark Byers
Dec 3, 2013
Profile Pic

Shhhh!!! It's so secret that you're not even allowed to say the name. Actually it's the worst kept secret ever. Fewer people know about Area 51. If you can't find a climber that will take you then make friends with some bear hunters.


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By Mark Byers
Dec 3, 2013
Profile Pic

Scott Phil wrote:
Several reasons--one being that there are only two spots to park--maybe three if the cars are really small.


Or 50 during bear season.


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By Tylerclimb
From Huntersville, North Carolina
Dec 3, 2013

No joke mark. We had to share the trail with bear hunters just to get in there. Like Tommy said very few sport climbs there. Most all are mixed and most are slab. I only went because it was a light rain and didn't want to chance short off but had already made the drive.


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