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Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Main Wall
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"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Arch Duke Dude, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bull Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bull run direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chartreuse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dry Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Enabler, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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House Made of Dawn S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Muffin Man T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nero's Fiddle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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PTS Crack (The Patridge Town Send) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snaking the Drain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strands un Dunn T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trusting the Rubber S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | lortie/strand 93 |
| Page Views: | 3,255 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | john strand on Jun 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
After the approach, the climbing is about equal. Super climbing on perfect rock. About the hardest F/A I've done. Way good steep slab climbing in a real remote setting. Way hard climbing up a steep dark slab, very sustained and sweet. If this was on Cathedral. no one would EVER do it.
Some beta;
decently tough climbing off the ground 11A past a bolt to a rest.Gear up in the small corner to your right and then move onto the slab. Hard and harder moves past bolts and then a big iron cross type move out right to a micro knob//crux stand up/ mantle to a rest. One more 5.11 section (bolt may be shady, i was gripped) and then the belay
Some beta;
decently tough climbing off the ground 11A past a bolt to a rest.Gear up in the small corner to your right and then move onto the slab. Hard and harder moves past bolts and then a big iron cross type move out right to a micro knob//crux stand up/ mantle to a rest. One more 5.11 section (bolt may be shady, i was gripped) and then the belay
Protection
Some small cams and bolts. Currently the bolts realty should be replaced, as they are old 5/16" buttonheads. Also, it is a bit far (understatement) to the first bolt and a possible gear placement before it is pretty crumbly (great rock the rest of the route), so be careful. It is well worth a rebolting.
You can get to the anchors now by doing the newer route Dry Run.
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