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Cadillac Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Auburn Court T 
Auburn Lane T 
Black Face S 
Brand New Cadillac S 
Deviant T 
Easy Street T 
Emission Control T 
Escalade T 
Ghetto Cruiser T 
Gonzo T 
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 
Highway of Diamonds T 
Highway Of Ra T 
Ichiban Arete T 
Land of Ra T,S 
Let it Vee T 
Midnight Trundler T,TR 
Moonlight Drive T 
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 
Stargate T 
Trail of Tears S 
Twistoflex T 
Untitled, The S 
V3 T 
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 

Black Face 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter
Fixed Hardware: 10 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,263
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Apr 15, 2001

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was one of the coolest climbs I have ever had the pleasure of, ahem, toproping. Begin this climb uphill from Land of Ra in the second gully from the left on Cadillac Crag. This route starts out on a thirty foot arete and then breaks left and follows a magnificent black face for 150 feet to a two bolt anchor.

This climb begins with some 5.9+ up the arete then breaks left on 5.10 climbing to a stance almost in the gully. Break out of this stance and follow the delicate and extremely technical crux past four bolts, 4 or 5 .11+ moves in a row. From here continue up the beautiful face situated at an unidentifiable angle on 5.10 climbing into another .11c/d crux near the top. The guidebook states there is a .12b move at the last bolt, but it looks nearly impossible and is easily avoided by moving right then back to the anchors. This is a beautiful and sustained pitch.


Protection 

Bring a #0.5-sized Camalot for the middle of the route. 11? bolts.



Comments on Black Face Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

Yes there is a 12 move at the top. the seq is not obvious, but if i remember there is a small left hand crimp with a long reach to a half-pad two-finger sloper...sounds good huh? Rossiter puts up fun routes...

By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Thin, committing, and a bit scary.