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Black Dog Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bradley White, Andy Byerly 10/86
Page Views: 1,753
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Jakob styling...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This former trad climb has a crack on it but doesn't climb like one for the most part... Crack technique will help but mostly interesting face climbing on cool rock with the occasional jam or fingerlock...

To the right of Sally's Alley (5.11c) follow bolts along the crack to the left of an arete, move right at the top (a long draw on the bolt to the right of the arete will help with rope drag)...

I found this one felt pretty hard but i've only been on it once...

Location 

Right of the corner on Sally's Alley and left of the arete of Valley Daze (5.11d)...

Protection 

6 bolts... anchors... long draw on last bolt helps...


Photos of Black Dog Crack Slideshow Add Photo
One of the very good 10b's in Rumney. Will never b...
BETA PHOTO: One of the very good 10b's in Rumney. Will never b...
Levy Desmarais in a 5.10b just like the old days.....
Levy Desmarais in a 5.10b just like the old days.....

Comments on Black Dog Crack Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007

An interesting route that is also a good warm up and way to get to the anchors if you wish to work Dark Star on TR.

For those perturbed by the retrobolting of a route called Black Dog Crack, the bolts replace the same number of fixed pins.
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

I really liked this climb, especially the wild top section
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Aug 2, 2009

It's original name was Black Sambo and not racist's. It was named after a chain of restaurants called Sambo's, and in the 1980's (because of racial implied profiling) Sambo's changed their name. It was the beginning of the newest image to Americanism. This Americanism spread to Rattlesnake. Climbers started calling Black Sambo, Black Dog Crack that title sounds racist to me. The first ascent of this climb was done with Andy Byerly.
All of the Sam names were related to an old dog I adopted named Sammy. She could climb low angle rock walls because her nails were so long. She could even climb some 1+ ice and snow walls. Her ice climbing would make me nervous.
By Anna C.
From: VT
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A really fun route! The 6th bolt is actually on Vallee Daze - you get a stance below the roof/crack at the top and reach around the arete to the right to clip it. Then you can step around the arete and head for the anchors, a little runout but on easy ground. Alternatively, bring a couple bigger cams to protect the top in the crack.
By S. Neoh
Aug 19, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Nice climb; very hard without the 'secret' hold which may not be so easily visible to shorties like me. I give it 2.5 stars.
May appear runout by Rumney standards but it really is not. :)
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Gee . . . I guess I missed the secret hold(s) for sure! I found this one hard at the grade. I was constantly groping awkwardly above my head for the 5.10a buckets that I couldn't find. The bolts are also a bit far apart which adds to the experience.
By S. Neoh
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Nick, you are right; there aren't a lot of buckets on this climb. I like the route and it is a great way to set TR up for the really good Vallee Daze.