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Black Diamond Chaos Harness
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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
May 12, 2010
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Enjoying the Black Diamond Chaos in Indian Creek.


Photo by Andre Kiryanov

Pros:

  • Comfortable once broken in.
  • Full strength haul loop
  • Waist belt does not sag with a full rack on.
  • Very durable webbing in speed buckle does not slip.

Cons:
  • Small Gear loops
  • Light-weight material lacks durability

For a full review check out:

www.dreaminvertical.com/?p=2735

Luke

For more Sweet Gear reviews from DreamInVertical check out our Gear Reviews page .


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By Lynn S
May 12, 2010
old

I have been in mine for about a year, some wear and tear, nothing excessive. Super comfortable, the sizing for me was a little weird. Medium waist perfect, but legs too small. I had to go with the large for the leg size and hence the waist is cranked all the way down.

I just had a couple clients buy the Chaos, so far they are psyched also.

I am impressed you could get all those cams on the gear loops and it did not de-pants you.


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
May 13, 2010
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Lynn S wrote:
I am impressed you could get all those cams on the gear loops and it did not de-pants you.


That is one of the things I really like about the Chaos. I can really load it up and the webbing on the waist belt doesn't slip through. I do have to cinch it down all the way to fit my waist which is proportionally smaller than my legs.

The trick to fitting more gear on the Chaos is to rack with biners facing gate out. They sit much nicer than gate in.

- Luke


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
May 13, 2010

Lynn S wrote:
, the sizing for me was a little weird. Medium waist perfect, but legs too small. I had to go with the large for the leg size and hence the waist is cranked all the way down.


That is interesting you both report this issue with the chaos. I have the arcteryx R320 and had the same problem. I ended up buying the large, because I could crank it down, and the L leg loops fit.

I noticed the problem with this when I got outside and all of a sudden my rack is hanging in front of my thighs instead of on the sides of my hips. Every time I moved my leg it would collide with gear, and on some moves, the gear would spill into my crotch. It sucked. I now climb with L leg loops and a M waist belt.

It is a great harness but isn't/wasn't worth all those sizing hassles considering it costs $50 more than a comparable petzl. I'm going back to Petzl when this one wears out.


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By Cory
From Boise, ID
Jun 24, 2010
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fun day in the Hills

Same issue with the sizing. I wish it had adjustable leg loops. I need a medium waist, but even the large leg loops are tight. I ended up buying the large, but when cranked all the way down the waist is still loose, so if I rack gear on it I feel like it wants to fall off! Consequently I now only use this in the gym, where I don't have much stuff hanging off the harness, and I'm not too worried about an upside down fall (I can't stop picturing myself falling out of this thing, even though that is probably unlikely). Most expensive gym harness ever!

I should note that I ski in the backcountry a lot and have much larger thighs than most people my size.


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By Jasmine Kall
Jun 24, 2010
Getting ready to climb!

I got the arcteryx R350 just for the adjustable leg loops. I have legs like most of you!


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