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The South End
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Black Crack T 
Black Hole Sun T,TR 
Cynosure T,TR 
Cynosure Direct T,TR 
Fire Away T,TR 
High Hopes TR 
Illusion T,TR 
White Arete T,TR 

Black Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,636
Submitted By: cshuey77 on May 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Joey Williams on Black Crack Photo : Gough


Photos of Black Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Final placement
Final placement
Black Crack - Annapolis Rocks
Black Crack - Annapolis Rocks
about 1/4 up Black Crack.
about 1/4 up Black Crack.
Black Crack - Annapolis Rocks
Black Crack - Annapolis Rocks
black crack
black crack
Black crack
Black crack
The beginning of Black Crack.  Always good to brin...
The beginning of Black Crack. Always good to brin...
David Morris dialing in the beta
David Morris dialing in the beta
Black Crack on a hot & humid summer day
Black Crack on a hot & humid summer day
Black Crack TR, late October.
Black Crack TR, late October.
Lower half of Black Crack.
Lower half of Black Crack.
Final placement on Black Crack (Build the anchor f...
Final placement on Black Crack (Build the anchor f...
Black Crack
Black Crack
Nadia Pinna casually strolling up Black crack
Nadia Pinna casually strolling up Black crack
Black Crack birds-eye view
Black Crack birds-eye view
Elizabeth Gough showing that crack whose wack!!
Elizabeth Gough showing that crack whose wack!!
Black Crack
Black Crack
David Morris on Black crack
David Morris on Black crack

Comments on Black Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

This climb makes the hike in worth it!! it has everything from face moves to handjams, with a overhanging jug haul to the top.
By jim-c
Sep 22, 2010

And there's a great view when you lose it and swing out. Best to try this route first, it pumps you quick. I had nothing left for it and only got about halfway up. Now I have to hike back up. Totally worth it, tho.
By ARMoss
Jan 24, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Deceptively hard about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up, but the gear is good all the way. Carry a BD #2 to protect the crux - easy falls into air.
By Fan Z.
From: Washington, DC
Jun 3, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb. I found it very tempting to get drawn into the easier terrain of White Arete to the left about 1/2-2/3 of the way up.

An easy anchor set up would be a couple of 20' cordelettes slung around the boulder at the top, with a couple of nylon runners for extension over the final roof with the hand crack.
By t0dd
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb is great and pumpy! has great placement throughout, but can definitely be TR'd too. very fun.
By Eli Buzzell
From: New Hampshire.
Jan 3, 2015

The unnecessary fist jam in the top is amazing! You can comfortably deadhang from it for days!