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Sphinx Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Crack 
Crunch, The 
Exit Stage Right 
Joint Venture 
Lickety Split 
Locksmith, aka Dihedral Route 
Return to Forever 
Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The 
So Honed Yet So Stoned 
Sphinx Crack 
Talus Food Crack 

Black Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ???Lee Marsh, 70s.
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: Ben F on Sep 28, 2002
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Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property MORE INFO >>>


As you view the left side of Sphinx Rock from the road, there are 2 obvious right-leaning cracks. The one on the left with a face start and 2 bolts to access the crack is Talus Food Crack. About 50 or so feet to the right of TFC is Black Crack. Black Crack is identifiable by its lower overhanging section that leads to a right-leaning, lower angled chimney slot (probably mostly 5.3 S with maybe a 5.6 or 7 move on it).

Scramble up onto the left side of a boulder leading to the base of the crack. You may want to place a piece (I used a blue Metolius) in the large boulder/block. Also be wary of some not so great rock in this section of the climb. Stem out to the left and place gear as you access the 15 ft. (thank God it wasn't longer) of overhanging hand and fist crack. Stick with it and enter into the easy, fun, but runout low-angled chimney slot. The crux is in the overhanging section with lots of good gear in good rock, so don't worry about taking a whooper.


Medium to large nuts, blue (#1) Metolius cam to at least a 4 Friend. A 4 Camalot is also handy. Double on #3 and #4 Friends. There is a solid tree at the top of this climb to use as an anchor. Walk off the back (obvious).

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By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 18, 2007

First ascent I think Lee Marsh early seventies.