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Routes in Sphinx Rock
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Black Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cheops S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crunch, The T,TR V0- 4- |
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Exit Stage Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joint Venture T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lickety Split S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Locksmith aka Dihedral Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Return to Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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So Honed Yet So Stoned S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sphinx Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Talus Food Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Thinner T A3 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | ???Lee Marsh, 70s. |
| Page Views: | 675 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Sep 27, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 
Per T Dz: I talked to the owner of the saloon who knows the property owner. Apparently, his deceased wife is buried at the base of Sphinx. Best to let her rest if so.
Description
As you view the left side of Sphinx Rock from the road, there are 2 obvious right-leaning cracks. The one on the left with a face start and 2 bolts to access the crack is Talus Food Crack. About 50 or so feet to the right of TFC is Black Crack. Black Crack is identifiable by its lower overhanging section that leads to a right-leaning, lower angled chimney slot (probably mostly 5.3 S with maybe a 5.6 or 7 move on it).
Scramble up onto the left side of a boulder leading to the base of the crack. You may want to place a piece (I used a blue Metolius) in the large boulder/block. Also be wary of some not so great rock in this section of the climb. Stem out to the left and place gear as you access the 15 ft. (thank God it wasn't longer) of overhanging hand and fist crack. Stick with it and enter into the easy, fun, but runout low-angled chimney slot. The crux is in the overhanging section with lots of good gear in good rock, so don't worry about taking a whooper.
Scramble up onto the left side of a boulder leading to the base of the crack. You may want to place a piece (I used a blue Metolius) in the large boulder/block. Also be wary of some not so great rock in this section of the climb. Stem out to the left and place gear as you access the 15 ft. (thank God it wasn't longer) of overhanging hand and fist crack. Stick with it and enter into the easy, fun, but runout low-angled chimney slot. The crux is in the overhanging section with lots of good gear in good rock, so don't worry about taking a whooper.
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