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 ADVANCED
The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) 
Apogee Pending 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo 
Flamingo Lane 
Full Retard 
Here We Go Again... Again. 
Lead Farmer 
Logan's Run 
Long Black Veil 
Observe God's Mistake 
Pimp's Main Prophet 
Power Milk & Bagels 
Power Thirteen 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown 
Spitting Image 
Teenage Prostitutes 
That's What She Said 
Unknown 1 
Unknown 3 
Who Left the Fridge Open? 

"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rich Aschert & Co.?
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011
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Starting up the fun crack.

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Description 

This line liebacks, jams, and stems up the obvious open-book. A set of 1980s-vintage ring bolts near the top of the cliff suggest the line was climbed on gear back in the day, but it has recently been retro-bolted by an unknown party.

Stem and lieback up smooth black rock to an easier section passing a large, detached flake. The feet get scarce passing an orange patch, then a brief juggy bulge leads to the route's highlight, a short section of splitter finger crack. Jam up the crack to deteriorating white stone and the original anchor. Continue a few more feet over a juggy roof to a new, stainless, springer anchor.


Location 

~100 yds north of the the leaning dihedral, up on a hill, is a dark slab with three lines. This is the central line.


Protection 

~7 Bolts, 2BA, and a higher 2 bolt springer anchor. Could be lead on finger-hand-sized pieces.



Photos of "Black Crack" (Name Unknown) Slideshow Add Photo
The original Teenage Prostitutes Area.  Routes shown from L -> R: <br /> <br />1. "40 Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown). <br />2. "Black Crack" (Name Unknown). <br />3. Teenage Prostitutes.
The original Teenage Prostitutes Area. Routes sho...
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