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 ADVANCED
The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rich Aschert & Co.?
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011

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Starting up the fun crack.

Description 

This line liebacks, jams, and stems up the obvious open-book. A set of 1980s-vintage ring bolts near the top of the cliff suggest the line was climbed on gear back in the day, but it has recently been retro-bolted by an unknown party.

Stem and lieback up smooth black rock to an easier section passing a large, detached flake. The feet get scarce passing an orange patch, then a brief juggy bulge leads to the route's highlight, a short section of splitter finger crack. Jam up the crack to deteriorating white stone and the original anchor. Continue a few more feet over a juggy roof to a new, stainless, springer anchor.

Location 

~100 yds north of the the leaning dihedral, up on a hill, is a dark slab with three lines. This is the central line.

Protection 

~7 Bolts, 2BA, and a higher 2 bolt springer anchor. Could be lead on finger-hand-sized pieces.


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