Black Corner 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Mulligan on Mar 26, 2009 |
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Doug placing gear before the crux.
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Description This route is somewhat sustained and is a very enjoyable lead or TR. The crux comes for most, especially shorter climbers, about 15 feet up.
Location This route is the next corner system to the right of Squirrel Cage and is the obvious black dihedral. There are several gulleys available for descent, the easiest being to the right when facing the wall.
Protection The gear is a little dicey with microcams being very useful around the crux. Even with the right size gear the crux may feel heady, especially for shorter climbers. There is a tree on top along with cracks to make an anchor.
By Kalil Oldham From: NY, NY Nov 28, 2011
| If we're calling Squirrel Cage 5.9, this is more like 5.7+. Gear is definitely dicey at the crux, seems like an SLCD behind that block might blow it out. Otherwise, I found it enjoyable. |
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