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Black Cliffs

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Dark Side, The 
East Car Body Canyon 
Face Canyon 
Fringe, The 
Green Acres 
Highway Face 
Mid Cliffs 
New Fringe, The 
Populace Wall 
Rodeo Flips Wall 
Scary Canyon 
Short Cliffs 
Tall Cliffs 
West Car Body Canyon 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Bingo
A twisty desert singletrack with expansive views and wild horses. Near Murphy, ID
Red Cliffs to Sidewinder to Hulls
A nice, fun, short loop perfect for a quick hit after work. Near Boise City, ID
Red Cliff to Bobs to Lower Hulls
A great loop featuring two of the best descents in the lower foothills. Near Boise City, ID
Corrals Trail
A mellow ride that can be used to access Hard Guy or Bob's from either Bogus Basin Rd or 8th St. Near Boise City, ID
Hard Guy to Dry Creek Loop
A long climb that will test your legs and lungs, followed by a drop into a gorgeous shady drainage. Near Boise City, ID
Crestline Trail
A super highway that connects the tops of Kestrel Trail, Red Cliffs Trail, and Lower Hulls Gulch. Near Boise City, ID
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Black Cliffs 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.5373, -116.0879 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,411
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: R Squared on Nov 12, 2007
Forecast:
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Ryan Flynn first time climbing in the Black Cliffs
Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

The Black Cliffs provide year round climbing if you don't mind being cold in the winter. Summer days are really hot so spring and fall tend to be the best times a the Black Cliffs. The rock is all basalt. Access is easy and the cliffs usually aren't crowded. The guidebook Boise Climbs by Sandy Epeldi is a great thing to have if you are going to be climbing the Black Cliffs. You can pick it up at REI or Benchmark.


Getting There 

Take Highway 84 to the Gowen Rd/Highway 21 exit. Take Highway 21 towards Lucky Peak. The cliffs will be on both sides of the river. Park in the parking lots and choose a trail up.


Climbing Season


145 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',68],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',14],['5.8',27],['5.9',29],['5.10',52],['5.11',18],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Cliffs:
Fat Ankles   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Mid Cliffs
Little Nest   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 60'   Populace Wall
Stems and Jammies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   Populace Wall
Sweet Adene   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 55'   Populace Wall
White Wash   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 55'   Populace Wall
Ajax   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Mid Cliffs
Surf's Up   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   Face Canyon
Perception vs. Reality   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   Populace Wall
Trimmed Bush   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 40'   Short Cliffs
Irreconcilable Differences   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 50'   Green Acres
Fairway to Heaven   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Green Acres
Stone Tools   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The New Fringe
Macabre Roof   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 50'   East Car Body Canyon
Circumciser   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Tall Cliffs
Pabst Smear   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   West Car Body Canyon
The Garden   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 50'   Green Acres
Unknown Leon   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Short Cliffs
Bologna Pony   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   Short Cliffs
Lights Out   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Face Canyon
In Your Face   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Face Canyon
Browse More Classics in Black Cliffs

Featured Route For Black Cliffs
Me on Pabst Smear. Chris took this pic from East Carbody.

Pabst Smear 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  ID : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon
Technical and sustained palming, smearing, and stemming. Don't underestimate the finish, this route doesn't let up until you are at the anchor!Apparently this route originally went on gear and was subsequently retro-bolted. Without the bolts the pro looked like it would be very thin and tricky! What a bold FA!...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

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More climbing in the Black Cliffs
More climbing in the Black Cliffs
Ryan Flynn working a route at the Black Cliffs
Ryan Flynn working a route at the Black Cliffs
Comments on Black Cliffs Add Comment
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By bheller
From: SL UT
May 22, 2010

Some of my best days at the black cliffs were on sunny cold winter days on the south facing cliffs and blistering hot days spent hiding in the shade on the north facing cliffs. The north and south sides have entireley different approaches. Consult Epeldi's book for the best published info for the south side approaches. The black cliffs can be a really fun place to climb, but it is by no means a destination. Out of the 100's of climbs, most are boringly similar. There are a handful of standouts though. The area is composed of numerous crags that are in close proximity. Digging in my memory for the standout sport climbs...Bologne Pony 10d-short cliffs, Unknown Leon 11a-short cliffs, Jet Screamin Hooter Queens 11b-tall cliffs, Pictures of Lily 11b-west car body canyon, Men Who Pause 11d-scary canyon, Beef Curtain 10d-scary canyon, Boise Gun Fighter 11d-scary canyon, The Groveller 11d-the dark side, Chassin a Snake 11d-the dark side, Sexual Underground 11c-easter island, Ehrlichman 12c-the nixon head, Watergate 13a-the nixon head.

By Trevor.
Mar 13, 2014

A heads up to all Black Cliffs climbers: There is a lot of loose rock up there right now. I've had several holds break this spring and I've seen several sketchy loose blocks I don't remember being loose last season. It seems like the freeze-thaw cycles loosened some stuff this winter. Be careful out there!