Mountain Project Logo

Black cliffs (Boise) beta for vertically challenged?

Original Post
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

Any easyish routes you'd recommend for a really short climber (not "reachy")? I'm interested especially in sport with possibility of also practicing trad placements, but rigging a top rope is okay too, if the anchors can be accessed from a tether up top without a giant hike. Thanks!

Michael Beasley · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 90

Have you checked out toddler at the short cliffs? Bolted 5.6. Also nash-e-mum at the mids is a low angle 7.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

Thanks! Toddler was probably the first thing I tried to climb, when I started about a year ago! Probably should go back and work on it. Also tried out Nash e mum and others, but I've got several "almost" climbs out there. What happens, is I get to what is clearly the end of the climb, where anyone else would clip the anchors, and they are just out of reach. Very sad. : (

S.Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 30

Almer Casille Memorial Buttress (5.8) in the Mid Cliffs maybe? Or maybe Bushwacker (5.7) in the New Fringe. As far as practicing trad, Snake Eyes (5.8) is a retrobolt so you could clip bolts if you get psyched out but may be a bit vertically challenging. Other retrobolts include Epic for the Masses (5.7). Stems and Jammies (5.8) is a great full trad but its been a while since I've climbed it so cant remember how tall the moves are.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374
S.Lee wrote:Almer Casille Memorial Buttress (5.8) in the Mid Cliffs maybe? Or maybe Bushwacker (5.7) in the New Fringe. As far as practicing trad, Snake Eyes (5.8) is a retrobolt so you could clip bolts if you get psyched out but may be a bit vertically challenging. Other retrobolts include Epic for the Masses (5.7). Stems and Jammies (5.8) is a great full trad but its been a while since I've climbed it so cant remember how tall the moves are.
Thanks! It's top roped, but stems n jammies is what I'm climbing in the sneakers on the left! Didn't get to the top, but only about two moves "short". Also, I tend to view anything I can get to as en route, so that was probably all over three routes at least. Obviously can't do that once I'm doing lead. Only about the third time on rock though, so it's still my favorite. I'll take a look at the others you mentioned. I have flailed, and I do mean flailed hard, and got up every move on a 10b on top rope and with a ton of falls, but still got there. So, I do think there's hope. At least I have a huge amount of fun! Thanks, again!
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

Since my first attempt at it was just about a year ago, we went back to Toddler last Saturday. I did manage to get up it, on top rope, with the smooth bit giving me enough of a fight (that just out of reach hold leftish), that I invented something meandery to the right. And, standing at the top, the anchors were indeed out of reach! Just to say I got there, I belly flopped up on the shelf just enough to slap them, then down climbed and lowered. Sheesh!

Don't think I'll use Toddler to aim for leading. If I have to work at it mo matter what, I think I'll hunt around for something I enjoy. Maybe stems n jammies, since it has sentimental value. We'll also head up to Mores mountain, once that's viable. Best, H. : )

Nice chatting with you guys out there, on Saturday, too, whoever you were! I lost your names instantaneously!

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

Resurrecting this ancient thread.

I'm aiming to lead this year, maybe try plugging some gear, so...

Still not great shakes as a climber, but have fun!

In the meantime, arthritis has set in, so along with being under 5 feet tall, my knees only bend a bit past 90 degrees. High steps are...Not so high.

I'm no respecter of routes, inside or out, so clusters of routes are candidates, too: if I can find something to grab, great! Just need to still be in striking distance of clipping the bolts.

My tick list on here is most of the few I did okay on, or had fun with, to give you an idea of where I am.

Thanks! OLH, aka Helen

John Barritt · · The 405 · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,083

H, how do you eat an elephant? A. One bite at at time.

I find that when I climb now I take "baby steps" when needed due to the creaky old body. Instead of reachy high steps that require more energy and make the knees work harder I concentrate on footwork and can make most routes low impact.

I may take a bit longer to get up something but who's in a hurry anyway?

When you come up "short" at the anchors (or anywhere else) on a route work your feet. Look for holds that might gain a few inches in the feet at at time.
When your feet move up 6" your hands will gain the same 6" as as result.

JB

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
Post a Reply to "Black cliffs (Boise) beta for vertically challe…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started