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Good page? (1 like)
|Type: ||TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.13 [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, February 22, 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||spring, summer, autumn|
|Submitted By: ||Pinklebear on Feb 22, 2009|
Black Christmas (named for the 1973 horror movie) is the straight-up/right-trending mega-line on the Outer Dark wall.
Begin down and left at the toe of the wall about six moves into Outer Dark. Move up past a sloping hueco and continue generally up and right along rails, crimps, gastons and sidepulls. Super-continuous climbing with only a couple shakes, and the crux at the top. Finish out over the slab for full value.
I imagine you could - in theory - boulder this out, with lots of pads and willing victims (er, spotters) lining the big slot. However, the moves are gymnastic and a too-wild fall at the end would probably spit you past the ledge and into the 40-foot dropoff.
As it is, a good TR - if you fall or hang, be sure to press off the slab behind you. Best short power-endurance climb in the Flatirons?
East side of Fee, 75 yards due west of Bidoigt across the big gully.
100 feet of static line, toprope rope, gear for the anchors. I scrambled around right and came back down the ramp to rig.
We put in two separate anchors, one for each strand of the static line.
- South anchor had purple (#1) Metolius Master Cam, a #1 Camalot, and the tree stump tied off.
- North anchor had #4 Camalot, #9 Metolius, #2 Camalot, and down below (in the vertical crack) a #6 Metolius Master Cam.