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Private Pizza Wall
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Black Blood T 
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Black Blood 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ben Folsom Oct. 1999
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 558
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 19, 2007

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Description 

Climb the offwidth which turns into a squeeze chimney which gets wider until reaching a ledge below a roof and a single bolt anchor.

Location 

This route is the offwidth/chimney system 40 feet right of Teeter Totter.

Protection 

On the first ascent I only got one small cam in about 5 feet before the anchor. You could probably get a very large cam in just off the ground, but it wouldn't do much good. Tube chocks may protect the bottom 25 feet or so which is the crux.


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By Ben Folsom
Nov 19, 2007

On the first ascent of this I had a nice, bleeding cut on my ankle which put blood stains on the right wall of the crack. That is the reason for the name Black Blood. When I came back this weekend, the blood stains were still there! If you climb this route, you may want to bring a bolt kit and put in another anchor bolt as I only drilled one. I will try to get back shortly and re-due the anchor. When I do I will update this post.