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Black Betty 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dean Lords
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: Jaren Watson on Jul 6, 2012
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Heather Lords firing the crux.

Description 

Short, steep, and powerful. Some cryptic and tenuous movement at the crux from bolts 3 to 5. Eases toward the end. Fun hard route.


Location 

Accessed from the trail directly across the parking lot, Black Betty is the first route just past the large juniper.


Protection 

6 bolts to sport anchors.



Photos of Black Betty Slideshow Add Photo
Middle of the route. Photo by Dean Lords.
Middle of the route. Photo by Dean Lords.
Joe Crane attempts the onsight.
Joe Crane attempts the onsight.
Comments on Black Betty Add Comment
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By Danger-Russ Gordon
From: Tempe, AZ
Sep 20, 2012

Super fun route, just don't go rope solo this route, and tie your master point with an overhand knot, then take a bunch of falls on it. You might have to spend 2 hours working your rope free with a leather-man like i did (lesson learned :) Other wise its awesome!

By Derrick
Sep 28, 2012

A Classic! Currently working on this route as well as a few friends. Please DO NOT take draws that may be on this route. People tend to take them not knowing they belong to others. Climbers leave the draws there in convenience while working the route.

By tsmartt
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

i appreciated the draws being there.
maybe i missed something, but this route felt really hard for 12a. did something break?