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Motherlode Rock - East Face
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Black Bart 
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Black Bart 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 14, 2007
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Helen on the lower half of Black Bart.


Climb a vertical, black face with edges up and left past three bolts to a ledge, then continue up the slab above past two more bolts to a difficult crux that's not especially fun. Once past the crux, one more bolt of easy climbing leads to the top.

It's possible on the upper portion to cut left into the corner and stem your way up as you reach right to clip the bolts - this keeps the grade at 5.10 and makes the route more enjoyable.

This was one of the first routes on the wall and originally had four bolts (the 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th) and no anchors, but was later retrobolted to make it a better protected - unfortunately the crux remains unappealing.


Located just right of Motherlode and 10' left of Psychedelic Sluice, a low-angled, splitter hand crack.


6 bolts, chain anchor

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Black Bart (5.11a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Black Bart (5.11a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007

We TR'd this a couple seasons ago. Great vertical 5.10 crimps down low and blank slab up high. I thought the crux was passing the first bolt on the slab? (4th bolt)

By Tozankyaku
Sep 8, 2009

I thought the crux is on the face between the 2 and 3 bolt the entire upper section is just a walk up friction climb maybe 5.10b tops.