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Dry Creek Spire
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Black Arrow T 
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Happy Ending, The T 

Black Arrow 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 330'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Burcham, Zack Bastow
Page Views: 650
Submitted By: Mike on Jul 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Manny leading the second (crux) pitch of Black Arr...

Description 

P1: (5.9) A short pitch. Climb up and left past a couple bolts to the limestone band. Place a small-ish piece, the up and left to a bolted belay.

P2: (5.10) Up and left to a hand crack. Up the crack to a bulge with a finger crack. Climb this (crux) to a nice crack above, then slightly left to a bolted belay.

P3: (5.9/5.10) Continue up a nice hand crack to a roof. Traverse left under the roof to a bolt, which protects a reachy move (maybe height dependant?) then up & left to a bolted anchor.

P4: (5.10-) Work up and right through a crack, then left to a bolt, then up to a bolted belay.

Location 

Starts about the middle, at a couple bolts going up & left to the limestone band. The first belay bolts are visible from just down & left of the start of the route.

Protection 

A few small cams, doubles through #3 camalot, slings & a couple quickdraws.


Photos of Black Arrow Slideshow Add Photo
Catherine leading pitch 1 of Black Arrow with Manny belaying.
Catherine leading pitch 1 of Black Arrow with Mann...
Black Arrow.
BETA PHOTO: Black Arrow.

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By E Kennedy
Apr 26, 2014

Beautiful route, but it gets a lot of sun. P2 is definitely the crux and most sustained. The bolt-protected moves on P3 are not a problem if you're short, as there are many reasonable options to pull pass the bulge.