Black Arrow  5.11a

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Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Jennie Garcia and Lance Hadfield Submitted By:  Craig Childre on Oct 3, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Same start as Frodo, within a guano ridden cave-like structure at the far north end of the crag. Take your pick of holds at the start, doing your best to avoid the nasty bird slime that inhabits a few of the hold off to your right. Mmmmmmm, just wipe it on your pants and keep climbing you ninny! Clip the first bolt and perhaps even the second above that if you desire, and traverse right on a large easy ramp until you can clip the next bolt. The crux follows the first bolt off the ramp and the next bolt is quite poorly placed as you risk an ankle biter on the ledge below should you bite it through the crux. After the crux endure the jugs to the chains.

Location 

The rightmost route on the wall facing the road, the downhill side.

Protection 

5-6 Bolts (depending on if you clip the second), Chains.