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Black Angus 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: Tim Quick on Dec 27, 2012

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Black Angus

Description 

SDS with a large sidepull. Climb up past a gaston, a pinch, a two finger slot, and finally the thin seam on the slab.

Protection 

1-2 pads.

The landing is easy to pad despite one awkward protruding boulder. Because of this boulder, 2 pads are recommended.


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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2014
rating: V9 7C

Black Angus is one of the better and more well known hard problems at Haycock. It starts sitting on a two-hand left-facing flake. Make a move up into a painful two finger pocket and utilize this unique intrusion for the meat of the problem. Ratchet down on the pocket to set up both hands in the very thin crack seam above that leads to the lip. The crack is about a #00 Metolius tcu size. Most people will end up with hands opposing this crack as gastons, like opening up an elevator door with both arms. Either go again to the flat lip from the pocket if you are tall and have a high ape index, or use the double gaston method described above. The mantel is trivial. Moving from the pocket to the lip is incredibly powerful. The first move from the flake to the pocket is relatively easy, perhaps V3, and the holds on this problem are fairly large and positive, especially for diabase. At Mount Gretna, this problem would be considered easier than V9, but Haycock is nearer to a major population area and has far more out of town visitors.