Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Stately Pleasure Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival T 
Black Angel T 
Boltway T 
Cross Reference T 
Daddy's Little Girl T 
Death Crack T 
Dixie Peach T 
Eunuch T 
Footnote T 
Get Slick T 
Great White Book T 
Hermaphrodite Flake T 
Mosquito T 
Shadow Nose T 
South Crack T 
Sweet Nothings T 
Table of Contents T 
Turning Japanese T 
Way We Were, The T 
West Country T 

Black Angel 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Falkenstein and Don Reid, July 1979
Page Views: 2,510
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Racking at the base of Black Angel.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


A good challenging lieback/finger crack climb. Bust a powerful, awkward move off the ground and continue underclinging, jamming, and liebacking the awesome right-angling crack to the top.


Just west of Stately Pleasure Dome. Park just east of the Murphy Creek picnic area. The route, a right-angling fingercrack/flake that intersects a prominent black streak, faces southwest and will be visible from the road.


Lots of small stuff. I took:
Doubles from blue alien to .75 camalot
Single #1 and #2

There's no anchor on top, so bring 2 extra .75 camalots + 1 #12 BD Stopper for the anchor on top, + 3 long slings for extending the pieces over a blunt edge. If you're going to run laps, this makes a great TR anchor.

Photos of Black Angel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Hernandez (belayed by Marc Hill) leading &quo...
Mike Hernandez (belayed by Marc Hill) leading &quo...

Comments on Black Angel Add Comment
Show which comments
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 6, 2015

This route is equipped with bolts and chains at the anchor. No need to walk-off.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!