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Black and White Rocks

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Rock 1 aka Crag 1 
Rock 2 aka Crag 2 
Rock 3 aka Crag 3 
Rock 4 aka Crag 4 
Rock 5 aka Crag 5 
Rock 6 aka Crag 6 

Rest Day:
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Black and White Rocks 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 25'
Location: 42.4396, -71.0777 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,334
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Crag 3; Perfection (5.1) goes up the big...

Description 

This is another collection of 6 or 7 smaller rocks in the 2600 acre Middlesex Fells Reservation with routes up which Boston Rocks lists this as being up to 80 feet tall. These rocks lie in Melrose. This may be best to think of this as a beginnerís bouldering or toprope area. Nonetheless, you wonít have to wait in lines to climb here. Also, you never know what you'll find on top of a crag here. These are also briefly described at the New England Bouldering Website (scroll down). There can be bits of ice here.


Getting There 

Go North on I-93 to Hwy 60 (exit 32), go East, go North on Fellsway East/Highland (bear right where it splits), go East on East Border Road. Park legally near Woodland.

Head North on a jeep trail. Bear right at the fork. Rock 1 is just East of the 1st fork. Rock 2, 3, & 4 lie up left along the 2nd fork. To get to Rocks 5 & 7, take the right branch at the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd fork, and they lie to the east of the trail. Rock 6 lies further along past Rock 5 & 7 past a 90 degree turn left in the trail and it lies North of the trail. Apparently, there is a Crag 54 that I've never seen (access unclear). Apparently, there are boulders here called Fat Man, Little Boy, and a bouldering area called Cascade Right that I've never seen. Apparently, there are ice climbs called Cascade, Elvis Has Left the Building, and Cascade Right that I've never seen.

Apparently, there is a MDC (617.322.2851) map that can help. The Friends of the Fells organization may help.


Trailmap 

Map.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Black and White Rocks
The rope is the route.

Quick Step 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  MA : Black and White Rocks : Rock 6 aka Crag 6
The crux is the first 15 feet. Decent holds and tricky feet will get you up to a break at around 17 or so feet up. From there, it is glorious, 5.4 bucketfest going up an fairly exposed position for the Fells. Going right to the arete at 15 feet will take you off route....[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Photos of Black and White Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Crag 3.  Worth seeking out at least once.
Crag 3. Worth seeking out at least once.
Black & White Rocks, Melrose, MA.
Black & White Rocks, Melrose, MA.
Learning the ropes at crag 3.
Learning the ropes at crag 3.
Crag 3; Curving Crack (5.2) straight up the middle of the picture. Squamish Squaw (5.3) G/PG off to the right 20 ft.
BETA PHOTO: Crag 3; Curving Crack (5.2) straight up ...
Comments on Black and White Rocks Add Comment
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By JSH
Administrator
Jan 12, 2012

These rocks are within the Middlesex Fells Reservation, officially governed by the DCR.
www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/metroboston/fells.htm

There's a good trail map (pdf) linked here:
www.mass.gov/dcr/news/publicmeetings/materials/greenwaystrai>>>

By Tim McGivern
Dec 23, 2012

I did some exploring around Crag 6 and the Cascade today. I also did some exploring on other side of Fellsway East near Boojum Rock. I think a lot of folks write this place off, but there are a lot of boulders in these woods! In the future months, I'll see if I can get some photos, locations, and descriptions to what I find.