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Black and White Rocks

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Rock 1 aka Crag 1 
Rock 2 aka Crag 2 
Rock 3 aka Crag 3 
Rock 4 aka Crag 4 
Rock 5 aka Crag 5 
Rock 6 aka Crag 6 

Black and White Rocks  

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Elevation: 25'
Location: 42.4396, -71.0777 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,702
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Crag 3; Perfection (5.1) goes up the big crack. Bl...


This is another collection of 6 or 7 smaller rocks in the 2600 acre Middlesex Fells Reservation with routes up which Boston Rocks lists this as being up to 80 feet tall. These rocks lie in Melrose. This may be best to think of this as a beginnerís bouldering or toprope area. Nonetheless, you wonít have to wait in lines to climb here. Also, you never know what you'll find on top of a crag here. These are also briefly described at the New England Bouldering Website (scroll down). There can be bits of ice here.

Getting There 

Go North on I-93 to Hwy 60 (exit 32), go East, go North on Fellsway East/Highland (bear right where it splits), go East on East Border Road. Park legally near Woodland.

Head North on a jeep trail. Bear right at the fork. Rock 1 is just East of the 1st fork. Rock 2, 3, & 4 lie up left along the 2nd fork. To get to Rocks 5 & 7, take the right branch at the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd fork, and they lie to the east of the trail. Rock 6 lies further along past Rock 5 & 7 past a 90 degree turn left in the trail and it lies North of the trail. Apparently, there is a Crag 54 that I've never seen (access unclear). Apparently, there are boulders here called Fat Man, Little Boy, and a bouldering area called Cascade Right that I've never seen. Apparently, there are ice climbs called Cascade, Elvis Has Left the Building, and Cascade Right that I've never seen.

Apparently, there is a MDC (617.322.2851) map that can help. The Friends of the Fells organization may help.



Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Black and White Rocks
Looking down on the route.  The climber is hiking ...

Endgame 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  MA : Middlesex Fells : ... : Rock 6 aka Crag 6
Endgame has easy climbing broken up by 2 ledges. The 5.7 moves only consists of the last 3 moves straight up the face and not using the arete. It's about a 5.4 getting to that point....[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Photos of Black and White Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Crag 3.  Worth seeking out at least once.
Crag 3. Worth seeking out at least once.
Black & White Rocks, Melrose, MA.
Black & White Rocks, Melrose, MA.
Learning the ropes at crag 3.
Learning the ropes at crag 3.
Crag 3; Curving Crack (5.2) straight up the middle...
BETA PHOTO: Crag 3; Curving Crack (5.2) straight up the middle...

Comments on Black and White Rocks Add Comment
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Jan 12, 2012
These rocks are within the Middlesex Fells Reservation, officially governed by the DCR.

There's a good trail map (pdf) linked here:
By Tim McGivern
Dec 23, 2012
I did some exploring around Crag 6 and the Cascade today. I also did some exploring on other side of Fellsway East near Boojum Rock. I think a lot of folks write this place off, but there are a lot of boulders in these woods! In the future months, I'll see if I can get some photos, locations, and descriptions to what I find.
By wclarkson
May 5, 2015
Old trail map link is broken; pdf of map is now here.
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