This is another collection of 6 or 7 smaller rocks in the 2600 acre Middlesex Fells Reservation with routes up which Boston Rocks lists this as being up to 80 feet tall. These rocks lie in Melrose. This may be best to think of this as a beginnerís bouldering or toprope area. Nonetheless, you wonít have to wait in lines to climb here. Also, you never know what you'll find on top of a crag here. These are also briefly described at the New England Bouldering Website (scroll down). There can be bits of ice here.
Go North on I-93 to Hwy 60 (exit 32), go East, go North on Fellsway East/Highland (bear right where it splits), go East on East Border Road. Park legally near Woodland.
Head North on a jeep trail. Bear right at the fork. Rock 1 is just East of the 1st fork. Rock 2, 3, & 4 lie up left along the 2nd fork. To get to Rocks 5 & 7, take the right branch at the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd fork, and they lie to the east of the trail. Rock 6 lies further along past Rock 5 & 7 past a 90 degree turn left in the trail and it lies North of the trail. Apparently, there is a Crag 54 that I've never seen (access unclear). Apparently, there are boulders here called Fat Man, Little Boy, and a bouldering area called Cascade Right that I've never seen. Apparently, there are ice climbs called Cascade, Elvis Has Left the Building, and Cascade Right that I've never seen.
Apparently, there is a MDC (617.322.2851) map that can help. The Friends of the Fells organization may help.
The crux is the first 15 feet. Decent holds and tricky feet will get you up to a break at around 17 or so feet up. From there, it is glorious, 5.4 bucketfest going up an fairly exposed position for the Fells. Going right to the arete at 15 feet will take you off route....[more]Browse More Classics in MA
I did some exploring around Crag 6 and the Cascade today. I also did some exploring on other side of Fellsway East near Boojum Rock. I think a lot of folks write this place off, but there are a lot of boulders in these woods! In the future months, I'll see if I can get some photos, locations, and descriptions to what I find.