Black and White John and Mary
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My anonymous partner showing me how easy the stems...
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The dihedral just right of Half-a-Finger, is Black and White John and Mary. The start is typically wet and is a rarely climbed 5.11 variation. Otherwise start left of the dihedral on a flake, and work into the dihedral above the moisture. Continue on up the dihedral with pumpy lie-backs, and fun stems.
There is a direct finish to Black and White which was added by Doug Heinrich sometime around 2002. Its about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) cuts left to the Half-A-Finger belay
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|Comments on Black and White John and Mary
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
best lead on the wall.
Apr 9, 2006
Truly is. Lots more pro on it than you think the first time you do it.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 2, 2007
Awesome route!! Much harder for me than Equipment Left. Many cruxes and very sustained.
|By The Real Mark Evans|
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 13, 2008
The Ruckman book has the top of this route traversing left and sharing the same chains as Hal-A-Finger. There are another set of chains if you continue directly op some scary flakes. I was wondering if anyone knew which is the "true" top of this climb?
I tried to reach the upper chains, but it was a bit intimidating, so I followed the Ruckman route to Half-A-Finger. The direct option seemed a bit harder and a little runout...
|By Drew Bedford|
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 15, 2008
The direct finish was added by Doug Heinrich about five or six years ago. It does check in at about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) does cut left to the Half a Finger belay.
|By Marq Diamond|
Oct 23, 2009
This climb is totally TRable from the top of half a finger. It's a really good, strenous route. I liked it a lot. Still don't have the balls to lead it though.
|By Adam Maxwell|
Jun 6, 2011
Got skeeved out on this today when the horn on the top of the first flake started to flex and move considerably when mantling up on the ledge, especially since the only gear placed was between it and the wall. Looks solid but definitely felt hollow. Be careful where you belay and climb lightly!
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 9, 2011
Great lead. Really fun. I placed 3 .3 camalots and 2 .4 camalots plus the bolt for gear. Maybe I'm not that observant but the last 10 feet or so to get to the chains is lacking gear. Felt easier than psychobabble in BCC with all the stems and low angle though. Crux is the mantle 10 feet into the climb.
|By Mark SLC|
Aug 8, 2011
+1 for best lead on the wall. The gear though small, is all there. Yeah the tip of the opening flake flexes, but rock solid lower and eats a nut. Shouldn't deter the competent leader as there are solid placements above once established. Doubles from blue tcu to orange will get it done, triples to sew it up. Also, good gear is available just before the top out left