Black and White John and Mary 5.10c
| 3,093 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | FA: D. Boyd, E. Eliason, 1970 FFA: L. Ellison, L. Carrol, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Apr 13, 2005 |
| |
My anonymous partner showing me how easy the stems...
Add Photo  Printer View
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description The dihedral just right of Half-a-Finger, is Black and White John and Mary. The start is typically wet and is a rarely climbed 5.11 variation. Otherwise start left of the dihedral on a flake, and work into the dihedral above the moisture. Continue on up the dihedral with pumpy lie-backs, and fun stems.
There is a direct finish to Black and White which was added by Doug Heinrich sometime around 2002. Its about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) cuts left to the Half-A-Finger belay
Protection Small gear.
| Comments on Black and White John and Mary |
|
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10c
| best lead on the wall. |
By tenesmus
Apr 9, 2006
| Truly is. Lots more pro on it than you think the first time you do it. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 2, 2007
| Awesome route!! Much harder for me than Equipment Left. Many cruxes and very sustained. |
By The Real Mark Evans
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.10c
| The Ruckman book has the top of this route traversing left and sharing the same chains as Hal-A-Finger. There are another set of chains if you continue directly op some scary flakes. I was wondering if anyone knew which is the "true" top of this climb?
I tried to reach the upper chains, but it was a bit intimidating, so I followed the Ruckman route to Half-A-Finger. The direct option seemed a bit harder and a little runout... |
By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 15, 2008
| The direct finish was added by Doug Heinrich about five or six years ago. It does check in at about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) does cut left to the Half a Finger belay. |
By Marq Diamond
Oct 23, 2009
| This climb is totally TRable from the top of half a finger. It's a really good, strenous route. I liked it a lot. Still don't have the balls to lead it though. |
By Adam Maxwell
From: SLC
Jun 6, 2011
| Got skeeved out on this today when the horn on the top of the first flake started to flex and move considerably when mantling up on the ledge, especially since the only gear placed was between it and the wall. Looks solid but definitely felt hollow. Be careful where you belay and climb lightly! |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 9, 2011
| Great lead. Really fun. I placed 3 .3 camalots and 2 .4 camalots plus the bolt for gear. Maybe I'm not that observant but the last 10 feet or so to get to the chains is lacking gear. Felt easier than psychobabble in BCC with all the stems and low angle though. Crux is the mantle 10 feet into the climb. |
By Mark SLC
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| +1 for best lead on the wall. The gear though small, is all there. Yeah the tip of the opening flake flexes, but rock solid lower and eats a nut. Shouldn't deter the competent leader as there are solid placements above once established. Doubles from blue tcu to orange will get it done, triples to sew it up. Also, good gear is available just before the top out left |
|
RSS Feed
2 more...
Slideshow