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Black and Tan 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rich Pleiss, Ron Augustino, 1985
Page Views: 6,674
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Jun 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Entering the roof traverse. Melissa Haltuch, 2000.

Description 

Great and sustained climbing in the hand/finger crack inside an orange right-facing corner. Laybacks, some stemming, and traverse through the roof in the end. Crack accepts solid pro. Beautiful looking route.

Location 

From Honeymooner's Ladders take a bit of an upstream hike well past the wall with Legacy. Follow the wall until you get to a big roof. The route is located inside an orange corner around the buttress just past the roof.

Protection 

Medium nuts and TCU's, cams up to #2.


Photos of Black and Tan Slideshow Add Photo
Fixed #2 Camalot can be seen just above. It is in very bad shape.
Fixed #2 Camalot can be seen just above. It ...
Melissa Haltuch on Black and Tan. Summer 2000.
Melissa Haltuch on Black and Tan. Summer 2000.
Johanna on Black and Tan, NRG.
Johanna on Black and Tan, NRG.
Chris approaches the crux. Black and Tan, Endless Wall, New River Gorge.
Chris approaches the crux. Black and Tan, Endless ...
Matt climbing through the fun layback finish.
Matt climbing through the fun layback finish.

Comments on Black and Tan Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jun 15, 2009

Hey Ryan, Rick Thompson's guidebook lists this route in the downstream Central Endless area -- I followed his designation. I just looked over the way areas are listed at MP and it is indeed different than in Thompson's guidebook. I'll contact the Administrator to move this to the appropriate location. Thanks for pointing this out.
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 16, 2009

Moved the route.
By Chase Roskos
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Excellent route. Small but good gear abounds. Looks like it couldn't be 10a because it is so thin, but it is all there.
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This was my first 10a trad lead and I'm glad it was. Looking at it kind of freaked me out, but it definitely is all there. GREAT ROUTE!!! It's got a couple difficult sections but there's always a great place to rest and place gear. I used small nuts and micro nuts along with some TCUs, but I did wish I had a bigger piece (maybe a #1 camalot) for the top section, but it's really easy up there, so it was no biggie to run it out to the anchors.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 25, 2011

From the Ground up it looks a wee bit freaky because it seems so thin, but once your on the route everything presents itself as you send higher and higher! A Great 10a route that was not to strenuous after a long day of climbing. More balancey then anything! A Worthy tick!

  • Highly Recommend*
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 9, 2012

Excellent and super aesthetic line with lots of variety in both movement and gear placements.
By Will Sweeney
From: Zachariah, Kentucky
Aug 27, 2012

Absolutely perfect route. Moves are kinda sporty. Felt more like 9+ to me minus the head factor of climbing above some tiny gear