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 ADVANCED
The Main Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidental Tourist, The T 
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 
Black and Tan T 
Broken Chain T 
Could Be Worse T 
Counter Curse T 
Dark and Stormy T 
Dark Arts T 
Darkest Hour T 
Death and Taxes T 
Fade To Black T 
False Prophet T 
Fierce Invalids T 
Gemini Dragonfire T 
Lakshmi Singh T 
Logic Bomb T,S 
Lord Humongous T 
Pressure Drop T,S 
Pyrokinesis T 
Rough Around the Edges T 
Speaking In Tongues T 
Sphere of Influence T 
There Will Be Blood T 
Walking Far From Home T 

Black and Tan 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Darren Singer and Jeff Huebner
Page Views: 4,034
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Ahh, Black and Tan.

Description 

Black and Tan has become a steadfast classic in the line up of Waterfall 5.10s. This pitch features fingers through hands jamming, excellent stemming stances, and, of course, the two tiered roof at the top which delivers the crux of the pitch.

Hard to miss on the climbers right side of the Main Amphitheater. A #3 and a #.75 protect the blocky entrance into the stem box. The excellent gear, steepness, and overall vibe of the pitch make it a great first route to do at the Waterfall.

Protection 

(2) each #.3 through #.5, (3) each #.75 and #1, a #2 is useful, though kind of tight at the first roof, and a #3 is good for a first piece at the start. A few medium wires are also nice to have.



Photos of Black and Tan Slideshow Add Photo
Dan Schwarz, Gunks local, enjoying some interesting roofs...
Dan Schwarz, Gunks local, enjoying some interestin...
Perhaps the best basalt pitch in Arizona: Tomas Robison stems wide on the ultra-classic Black and Tan.
Perhaps the best basalt pitch in Arizona: Tomas Ro...
Pulling the roof
Pulling the roof
Wildly fun stemming on Black & Tan.
Wildly fun stemming on Black & Tan.

Comments on Black and Tan Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 1, 2013
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 1, 2008

Anchors replaced 6-1-08. 1/2 inch bolts, hangers, quick links, and biners for a speedy return to the ground, and on to the next route.
By Jon Ruth
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2008

Awesome. Do we owe you a cold one Jeremy?
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 24, 2008

Naw, I don't mind putting in the extra effort to make sure that our NAZ classics are properly taken care of.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

One of the best pitches I've climbed in years.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

A great route with fun moves. The roofs are much easier than they appear from the ground. The crux for me was a short thin crack section low in the stem-box.
By Darren Singer
From: Portland, OR
May 15, 2010

See Lord Humongous re: mysterious bolt holes. Sorry for the low budget bolt anchors guys - grad student salaries didn't afford much for hardware at the time.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Incredible pitch!
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Wow! this was my first ever trad lead. I tr'ed it before I tried it on lead. It felt easy but wow amazing stone!!!!!! Can't wait to climb the harder stuff. Thanks JJ for the hard work at this crag.
By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This was my first 10 trad on site, and an amazing route!
By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

One of my favorite 10's anywhere, and one I repeat every chance I get. Unfortunately, I fixed a red C4 under the first roof on Sunday. Would love to get it back if possible. A six pack of your choice and tons of good karma awaits..!
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 7, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This climb is incredibly good. It also protects very well. Nothing PG about this one. Thrilling lead though.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 29, 2013

So after 15 years of climbing past the stack of blocks at 1/3 height on Black and Tan, we finally decided to take a closer look. Wade pulled out every block but one by hand, and he did so with minimal effort. These blocks were slathered with chalk and I've seen folks reefing on them for years. It should go without saying at a crag like the Waterfall, but be careful what you pull on, because it could be the last decision you make.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 15, 2013

thanks guys! this was the route's only minor blemish, and now is clean as a whistle!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 16, 2013

I guess when people are brought up on well buffed routes and plastic they just assume things will be solid. They may or may not be solid. When I started climbing just after the ice age, I learned that if it didn't look solid treat it like it could break or fall off. Thus Jimbo and I do everything we can to clean the stuff we think will kill or maim people cleaned off. It would suck to have someone get hurt by something we thought was solid. We have also found that many things that will not come off with a hammer will pretty easily come off with a crowbar. Thanks for the cleanup JJ.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 1, 2013

I talked with Darren Singer a number of years back about retro cleaning some of the original lines, and he was all for it. Though they did take out the obvious stuff, cleaning was a different deal in 1992. There are a bunch of routes on the Left Wall that could use a good once over, and the overall quality would go up tremendously. There's always going to be some choss here and there, but I don't think people need to be shy about removing any direct hazard from any route here. The freeze/thaw effect here can loosen rock over the course of just a couple seasons once we start climbing on it....