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L to R R to L Alpha
Start straight up the center of the black streak. Early gear is possible, but climbing is easy up to a ledge. Step right here, and then up into the dihedral. More easy climbing leads to a blank face and thin crack just below a roof. Pull into the overhang, get some good gear above, then make an airy step out onto the face to your right. Sustained climbing above your gear makes the finish quite fun. Belay, toprope, and descend from two glue-in bolt anchor.
Right side of the Black Wall (north-facing wall). Start at the center of the obvious black streak, and left of the Black Magic Woman chimney.
Gear to 2"