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Bitty Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A's Jax 
Bitty Buttress 
Buzz, The 
Electricity 
Hand is Quicker than the Eye, The 
Holy Ascension 
Jaguary 
Jam Left 
Jitters, The 
Lorax, The 
Mirage (aka Right Crack) 
Moby Dike 
Peach Monkey 
Peapod 
Return To Sender 
Reveille 
Rise and Shine 
South 
Spins, The 
Treetop Landing 
Welcome Home 

Bitty Buttress 


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Lat, Long: 40.0018, -105.3869 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 46,738
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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Approaching the crux on the Buzz. Photo taken by ...
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure - reopened July 30, 2013 MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Bitty Buttress has interesting rock with good features and lots of colorful lichen. The approach is a little longer hike than for Blob Rock, but it is well worth it.

    It is subject to raptor closures, so check before getting stuck with a hefty fine.

    A descent is possible by hiking off the backside of the rock to the NW, then down a gully to the East of Blob Rock.

    This is a small crag divided into 4 entirely distinct sections:

    L->R:

    Up & Right
    A. Moby Dike, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
    B. Leaping Lizards, 11+, 1p, gear & bolts.

    Peapod Buttress
    C. Treetop Landing, 9 PG-13, 1p, gear.
    D. Palm Saturday, 12, 1p, TR.
    E. Razor Hein Stick 12, 1p, bolts & gear.
    F1. Split Pea, 11+, 1p, gear & bolt.
    F2. Peapod, 11, 1p, 60', gear.
    G. Holy Ascension, 13- or A4, 1p, gear or TR.
    H. ??, 12, 1p, gear & bolts.
    I1. The Hand is Quicker than the Eye, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
    I2. Jaguary, 11 R, 1p, gear.
    J. Jam Left aka Left Crack, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.
    K. Right Crack, 10-, 1p, 70', gear.

    Main Buttress
    L. Welcome Home, 12, 1p, 40', 4 bolts.
    M1. Electricity, 12-, 2p, 150', gear & bolts.
    M2. A Day At The Crags, 8, 1p, gear, joins N.
    N1. A's Jax, 8, 3p, 200', gear.
    ? Return To Sender, 12-, 2p, 130', bolts.
    above N1. Zero Tolerance, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
    above N1. Moon Doggie, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
    N2. South, 7, 2-3p, 350', gear.
    O. Rob's Way, 9 R, 1p, var, joins P.
    P. Bitty Buttress, 8+, 3p, gear.
    above P. Final Roof, 8, 1p, var to 3rd p of P.
    Q. Orange Dihedral, 8, gear, joins P.

    Amphitheatre
    above R. Peach Monkey, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
    R. The Buzz, 12+, 1p, bolts.
    S. The Spins, 12, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
    T. Project, 14?, 1p, bolts.
    U. Roof, A3, 1p, gear.
    V. The Jitters, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
    W1. Rise and Shine, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
    W2. Reveille, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
    Y? Lorax, 13, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.


    Getting There 

    Take a path that starts at a pullout on the N. side of the canyon, about 25m west of the pullout to Cob Rock. Hike up this well traveled trail to a fork that heads right. Stay on the trail until you're below Blob Rock. Continue heading East over a little hill, then down to the base of Bitty Buttress. The route "Bitty Buttress" starts above a fallen tree.


    21 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',8],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bitty Buttress:
    Bitty Buttress   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Jam Left   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
    Peapod   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Rise and Shine   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Return To Sender   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   
    The Buzz   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Lorax   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Browse More Classics in Bitty Buttress

    Featured Route For Bitty Buttress
    Bruce Hildenbrand at the crux on the third pitch.

    Bitty Buttress 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  CO : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress
    This is a great line up the exposed and interesting buttress.P1: Start at the low point by a fallen tree and head straight up the crack systems. The exact route is probably the line of least resistance, but many variations are possible. This is the longest pitch and the best of the three. Belay on a big ledge.P2: Take the corner to the right and crank up the large dihedral.P3: Continue up the right-facing dihedral. The technical crux occurs after #2 Friend placement. This is your last plac...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Comments on Bitty Buttress Add Comment
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    By Greg Kneser
    Jan 2, 2003

    I feel that the best pullout for Bitty Buttress/Blob Rock is the one just past the pullout for Cob Rock and on the North side of the road. There are earlier pullouts with access to somewhat steep gullies where rockfall is easy and where it might hit your car or the road, neither one a good situation.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 29, 2003

    The sheltered ampitheater above and right of the Bitty Buttress Route, between The Buzz and The Lorax, is called The El Cap Ampitheater in Rolofson's guide. I've also heard it called The Hot House, probably because it radiates and holds so much morning sun. It's possible to climb here in mid-winter even when it's too windy on Blob. Looks like more routes(?) have gone in here lately. Anyone know what the old aid route is that goes out the big overhang?

    By Dmitriy Zinchenko
    Jul 7, 2004

    If you park just past Cob (like Greg K. suggested) beware the poison ivy that litters the first leg of the approach trail. I've found that passing below the Rock w/3 Cracks is a little easier of a trail if you're going to the fallen tree.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 8, 2010

    Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
    www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
    Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

    Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) – The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

    Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

    These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

    The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
    For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/rock-climbing/brd/index.sht>>>.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 26, 2012

    From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District:

    Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.
    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 15, 2012

    From Bev Baker, USFS wildlife biologist:

    U.S. Forest Service to reopen most climbing areas in Boulder Canyon

    www.fs.usda.gov/arp
    Contact: Boulder Ranger Station Visitor Information Services,

    (303) 541-2500

    Boulder, Colo. March 15 – This Mon., March 19, the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2012.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 30, 2013

    From the USFS:

    Boulder, Colo. (Jan, 30 2013)– The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.

    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Feb 3, 2014

    From Bev Baker:

    Date: Feb. 3, 2014

    BOULDER, Colo. – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

    These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

    Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. It is against Federal and State law to disturb any nesting bird of prey.

    The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence. “Closures in Boulder Canyon are vitally important to protect one of only a handful of known golden eagle nesting territories in Boulder County. Their specific habitat needs limit what areas they can use for mating and fledging their young,” said Sylvia Clark, Boulder District Ranger. Contact Boulder Ranger District at 303-541-2500 for more information.