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 ADVANCED
Third Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bittersweet S 
Coffindaffer's Dream S 
First, Last, and Always S 
Half Mast S 
Happy Sexgiving S 
King Lichen Me S 
Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 
Lieutenant Tomek  S 
Meathead S 
Mr. Cute S 
Prow, The S 
Shake And Not Stir S 
Skull In Hole S 
Starry S 
Strip Tease S 
Supermoon S 
Thrill in the Ville S 
Unnamed S 
Vanished S 
Wanderer, The S 

Bittersweet 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson (1997)
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: ---- on Apr 2, 2012

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Description 

Bittersweet is a fun climb that is marred by a manufactured hold between the second and third bolts. Without the addition of this glued on rock the climb would probably be a really nasty 14- or it might not even be possible. Even with the addition of the stone this is still the location of the crux.

Start with 15 feet of roof climbing on sculpted slopers. Clip the second bolt and then blitz the crux swing dyno. Take a really good rest at the third bolt before taking on a second easier crux. The second crux involves some small crimps and a long lock off at near vertical angle. Climb through several more bolts of bizarre rock, some of which is purple. One more hard move awaits you as you clear the final roof. It is kind of bewildering hanging the draw at the roof so stay focused. Fifteen more feet of steep jug hauling takes you to the top of the cliff. Lots of variety on this one. Surprisingly rope drag is not an issue even if you use all short draws.


Location 

Far right end of the third buttress. Its the steepest route in the cave.


Protection 

11 bolts + anchor



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