All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 4. Third Buttress

Bittersweet

Name: Bittersweet
Rating: 3.5

5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British

Routes in 4. Third Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alleluja S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Antofil S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Baron Von Saurkrauten S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Beer Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Bittersweet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Boffedes V6 7A
	Bring Your Nuts T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
	Coffindaffer's Dream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Coloring Book S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dean's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dear Hunter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dracula’s Tooth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dragon's Tooth S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	First, Last, and Always S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Flying Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Forrest Dump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Half Mast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Happy Flying T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Happy Sexgiving S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Italiano Vero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Joli Goes to Zermont S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	King Lichen Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Kosmology S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Kurt Albert Gedachtnisweg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	La Senora No Contenta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lieutenant Tomek S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Line of Demarcation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Meathead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Minimax S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Moselstraße S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mr. Cute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pondel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Powerbar Power S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prow, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Raggin' Tail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rrugë Të Pista S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shaken Not Stirred S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Skull In Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Starry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Strip Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Supermoon S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Telexpress S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Thrill in the Ville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tita S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tsunami Bob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unnamed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Up the Wizard's Sleeve S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Vanished S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Wanderer, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Mark Stevenson (1997)
Page Views:	3,151 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Fred Gomez on Apr 2, 2012
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details

**NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.

THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL***

Description

Bittersweet is a fun climb that is marred by a manufactured hold between the second and third bolts. Without the addition of this glued on rock the climb would probably be a really nasty 14- or it might not even be possible. Even with the addition of the stone this is still the location of the crux.

Start with 15 feet of roof climbing on sculpted slopers. Clip the second bolt and then blitz the crux swing dyno. Take a really good rest at the third bolt before taking on a second easier crux. The second crux involves some small crimps and a long lock off at near vertical angle. Climb through several more bolts of bizarre rock, some of which is purple. One more hard move awaits you as you clear the final roof. It is kind of bewildering hanging the draw at the roof so stay focused. Fifteen more feet of steep jug hauling takes you to the top of the cliff. Lots of variety on this one. Surprisingly rope drag is not an issue even if you use all short draws.