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Valley Massif
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Been Hair Done That T 
Best Man T,TR 
Bill Steal T 
Bittersweet T 
Dirty Joke, The T 
Falcon's Lair T 
Hair of the Dog T 
Hammer T 
Hooker T 
Internal Combustion T 
King of Coney Island T,S 
Ladder T 
Monkey Wrench T 
Nail T 
Powder Puff T 
Quits T 
Screw T 
Slut, The T 
Social Security Ran Out T 
Soft Touch T 
Sunny Day T 
Surprise T 
Tail Spin T 
Tea Grinder T 
Tool Or Die T 
Zipper T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 523
Submitted By: Gary Schmidt on Jun 14, 2007

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Passing the crux to reach the crack.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


First of all, the only reason I submitted this as a 9 is because that's what the guidebook says. However, IMHO, the crux moves below the bolt could fairly easy pass for around 5.10b.

Ascend the right-slanting, narrow, awkward ramp and get in some pro. Traverse left and clip the lone bolt on the route (recently replaced). Make the crux moves which fortunately are completely protected by the bolt. Gain the crack to your left, and jam it out to the ledge.


It is easy to find. Look for the lone bolt on the first line left of Powder Puff.


Smaller gear for the start then a bit of fist size gear for the good crack.

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