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Red Arch Mountain
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Bits and Pieces T 
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Bits and Pieces 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Phil Gleason, Jon Gleason, Dave Jones- April 1994.
Page Views: 2,474
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Feb 24, 2007

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First pitch of Bits and Pieces.

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Description 

This route is destined to become a Zion classic. During the first ascent the route was littered with "bits and pieces" of airplane left over from a crash that occurred sometime in the 1970's.

P1 (5.8, 100') Climb the obvious hand crack in a small right-facing corner. Belay at the obvious ledge where the crack ends.

P2 (4th class, 150') Step down and left crossing a chimney. After gaining a bushy ledge traverse up and left aiming for the obvious chimney with a tree at it's top. Next, head right up loose and bushy ledges to a ledge at the base of the obvious crack on the main wall.

P3 (5.10c, 120') Climb the obvious crack in the main wall. There is currently a dead tree about 10 feet up the crack. Start with thin hands which quickly becomes wider. This leads to a spectacular thin hands crack in the left-hand wall. Next, you'll follow a large flake until a bolt appears out left. Clip the bolt and head left to a good ledge and a 2-bolt anchor.

P4 (5.8, 60') Down climb to a ledge at the base of the chimney. Climb up using the thin crack on the left until you reach the high point of the ledge in the corner.

P5 (5.11a, 100') Climb the wide crack above (5.8) to the obvious roof. Climb out the roof, finding a bolt at the far end. Continue up the crack above to a 2-bolt semi-hanging belay.

P6 (5.9+, 130') Continue up the crack into a short chimney capped by a roof. After turning the roof, follow an easy ramp out right to a huge ledge and belay.

P7 (5.5, 50') Climb up easy terrain, heading back left towards the big corner. Belay on the ledge at the base of the chimney. There are bolts at the "front" of this ledge; the bolts are part of the rap route.

P8 (5.11a/b, 120') Stem your way up the chimney to the hand crack on the left hand wall. Use the hand crack to gain the chimney above. Continue up the chimney/face climbing until you reach a second chimney. Tunnel up through until you pop out on a big ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

P9 (5.8, 100') Climb a clean finger/layback flake on the right. From the end of the flake head right up a flared, lower-angle wide crack to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

P10 (5.9, 100') From the anchor head right approximately 30ft to a small prow in the bulge. After surmounting the bulge follow the path of least resistance, with a bit of zig-zagging, to the summit. Belay from one of several trees.

Protection 

  • One set nuts, no RPs
  • One set Aliens, green-red
  • Two sets Camalots #.75-#3
  • One #4 camalot
  • One optional larger cam

Approach 

This route is located on the southwest side of Red Arch Mountain.

Park at the first pullout on the left, past the lodge, as you head up canyon.

Hike up hill to the east utilizing a small drainage that creates a break in the lower cliff band. Follow game trails up and to the climbers' left to reach the base of the wall.

The start of the climb is identified by a hand crack in a corner located approximately 30 ft to the right of a thin finger crack, which is visible from the road.

Descent 

Rappel from a tree on the summit to the top of pitch 9, then to the top of pitch 8.

Next, rappel to the ledge at the bottom of pitch 8. Use the anchor at the "front" of the ledge to rappel to the top of pitch 5.

Next, rappel to the top of pitch 3.

Next, rappel to the big bushy ledge at the bottom of pitch 3.

Now coil your ropes and scramble down and to the right (skiers' right) to a tree with slings. This tree is not located on the route of ascent. Rappel from this tree to the ground.

2 ropes are mandatory for the descent. A single 70m rope will not work.

After 2/24/2007 the next ascent party should bring new cord/slings for the rappel anchors. The current webbing is 13 years old! Please leave the rap biners in place!


Photos of Bits and Pieces Slideshow Add Photo
The blue line shows the route. The yellow shows th...
BETA PHOTO: The blue line shows the route. The yellow shows th...
The first crux pitch on Bits and Pieces (the third...
The first crux pitch on Bits and Pieces (the third...
The second to last pitch on Bits and Pieces.
The second to last pitch on Bits and Pieces.

Comments on Bits and Pieces Add Comment
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By roxclamantis
Apr 22, 2008

Hi, Just thought I would clarify the origin of the name 'Bits and Pieces'. I don't recall thinking about the plane crash, but instead was thinking of the double meaning of 'piecing together' a route, as well as drill 'bits' and trad 'pieces'. Actually, I'm just as happy to have the 3rd meaning because it adds to the allure of a name. I think this is a really fun route, and not as intimidating as a lot of the other ones.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 24, 2008

Rox, you must be Dave.
Interesting comment, nice to see your input.
I actually climbed the route with Jon G. He's the one who told me the(or his) story behind the name. Very cool to see where your thinking was compared to his.
Many people around here would benefit from your inputs and route knowledge...please post more!
By notmyname
From: Stony Brook, NY
Mar 31, 2009

Great route! Definately got worked. The summit pitch was exciting for sure. The route description and gear beta are perfect.

Note on the raps. Pitch 10, 9, and 8 can be rappelled with a single 70meter and I reccomend doing so to avoid rope calamity. Bring plenty of tat. I used some really light supertape to back a couple raps up, but this route could really use a complete tat refresher.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 28, 2009

Careful on the rap from P5 to P3 - small knot recommended! We had to pull from the bolt protecting the traverse on P3. Fun route with the exception of "pitch" 2. Hard cruxes!
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Oct 10, 2010

Left my Soft shell shirt at the base of the 2nd 5.11 pitch. Tucked under a rock.. A cold one waits for whomever returns it!

O yeah...Fun route too. Standard Zion!
By paulmadry
Oct 24, 2011

Orange backcountry soft-shell? I brought it down only to realize it was sun bleached and holly. 1 year of sun and wind exposure was too much.
As for the route it's a bit discontinuous at the beginning but then is great I'd give it G protection. And the second crux is quite unusual.