Bitchy Virgin  5.5

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, 1954 Submitted By:  Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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MORE INFO >>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This moderate gets a reasonably good review in the Dick Williams Trapps Guide, but I wasn't a huge fan.

The route starts just past the Guide's Wall area, and left of the large Dis-Mantel block, at a large right-facing corner capped with overhangs.

P1: Climb the large right-facing corner past a small, sketchy tree. Just before the corner ends at the large overhang, traverse left out onto the face to a semi-hanging belay. 5.5, 80'.

P2: Diagonal up and right above the overhangs until directly below a large tree on the GT Ledge. Then climb basically straight up the thin face to juggy terrain. Belay off the tree. 5.5, 80'.

The easiest descent is to rappel with two ropes from the tree on the GT Ledge. You can make it down with one 60m rope from this tree, but it requires an angling rappel to a second anchor. You can probably find an easier rap by traversing the GT Ledge in either direction.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack. Pitch 2 is protected by small-medium cams and tricam placements that are sometimes difficult to find; if you find yourself getting runout, look around more.