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Bitch's Brew T 
Crossroads T 
Mountain Momma T 
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 
Sorcerer, The T 
Voodoo Child T 
Wizard of Air T 

Bitch's Brew 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Peter Prandoni and Ron Beauchamp, Sept. 1981
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: Sky Sjue on Oct 7, 2013

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Ross near the top of the third pitch.

Description 

Quality climbing despite some friable rock and avian excrement.

Pitch 1: Follow Mountain Momma.

Pitch 2 (5.10+): Follow Mountain Momma until it heads left. Instead of going left toward the shared belay pedestal with Voodoo Child, continue directly up the corner system. Pull through a steep section on positive holds in friable rock to a belay with one bolt (can be fortified with protection in kitty litter pockets). This is a longish (~50 m) pitch.

Pitch 3 (5.10+): Continue up the corner. Stemming and liebacking lead through a bulge to a hand crack filled with bird poop. Bail gear from lost souls in search of Mountain Momma is evident. Follow the hand crack until it ends in a corner below a roof. Face climb right past the roof (take small brassies and micro nuts) to a nice belay stance with a fixed nut above it.

Pitch 4 (5.11-): Strenuous moves through the roof directly above the belay stance (crux) lead past a piton to a finger crack. The route rejoins Mountain Momma at the large ledge system below its last pitch.

Pitch 5: Standard finish to the top of Torreon via easy 5th class.

Location 

Torreon, right next to Mountain Momma. See photo with routes drawn in 2013 version of Mick Schein's Sandia Rock for more detailed info.

Protection 

Standard Sandia rack to a 3" cam. Double hand-size units useful but not necessary. A selection of brassies and micro nuts for the third pitch.


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By TeleRoss
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 7, 2013

The amount of bird shit on p3 is totally sandbagged in this description. It's pretty gnarly despite the amount of poop gardening Sky was doing up there.
And yet, in spite of all that, this is a really, really good route and deserves more traffic.
By Mick S
Oct 8, 2013

Yeah I was glad I didn't lead that pitch, although the climbing is awesome. Great adventure route.