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AFPA Rock
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Bitch, Bitch 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Evans and Marge Floyd
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Sep 11, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: "Bitch, Bitch". If you like choss, you'll love thi...

Description 

This is a loose, poorly protected crack/face near the left end of the main AFPA wall.


Protection 

standard rack



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By seamstress
Dec 28, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

There are two bolts on the lower portion - so "runout" isn't accurate. Before the first bolt, you can get a small cam in the left crack which is out of your line of sight, so peer around and check it out. There are a couple of times when you have to step left and it feels a little insecure, so probably not the best climb for your first 5.7 lead. The second half is fun where the rock separates and you can stem or lie back or wedge in a body part. This and other APFA Rock climbs are good for a cold day.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Dec 30, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I believe the bolts are for the arete route to the left, although the first one can come in handy. I disagree with the 'R' rating as it stands today. Perhaps it has cleaned up over time, but the pro is fine.

By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This is a fun route - I thought it was better than Which Bitch to the right. There are plenty of solid gear placements and one bolt - an R rating is not warranted.