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Little Baldy
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Bit By Bit 
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Merkin, The 
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Welcome to Little Baldy 

Bit By Bit 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Tim Slover and Dale Haskamp. August, 1991
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 235
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Apr 22, 2013
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Here comes the sun and some great climbing!


This climb can be done as one clean 5.7+ pitch, or taken to the top through easier terrain. Makes a good warm up and dries off very quickly after rain.

P1: Climb up to the right of a small triangle roof, past a horisontal crack, and trend up and right to a bolted anchor.

P2: Climb up and belay at the start of a left facing dihedral.

P3: Up and left until you're on a large ledge system.

P4: Option 1- Climb up and left through runout slab, past a bolt and into a right facing dihedral. Option 2- Go right into a left facing dihedral and follow it up.

The last half pitch is 4th class but a fall would be bad.


There are several slab climbs at the far right end of Little Baldy. This route starts on the left side of this area and climbs just to the right of a small triangular roof.


5 or 6 draws and a .5" piece if only doing the first pitch, more small to medium gear if heading all the way up. One 60m rope is good unless you rap off the 150' first pitch.

Photos of Bit By Bit Slideshow Add Photo
Second pitch
Second pitch
Justin at the start
Justin at the start
Bryan on the first pitch
Bryan on the first pitch
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