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Little Baldy
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Bit By Bit 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tim Slover and Dale Haskamp. August, 1991
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Apr 22, 2013

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Second pitch

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb can be done as one clean 5.7+ pitch, or taken to the top through easier terrain. Makes a good warm up and dries off very quickly after rain.

P1: Climb up to the right of a small triangle roof, past a horisontal crack, and trend up and right to a bolted anchor.

P2: Climb up and belay at the start of a left facing dihedral.

P3: Up and left until you're on a large ledge system.

P4: Option 1- Climb up and left through runout slab, past a bolt and into a right facing dihedral. Option 2- Go right into a left facing dihedral and follow it up.

The last half pitch is 4th class but a fall would be bad.

Location 

There are several slab climbs at the far right end of Little Baldy. This route starts on the left side of this area and climbs just to the right of a small triangular roof.

Protection 

5 or 6 draws and a .5" piece if only doing the first pitch, more small to medium gear if heading all the way up. One 60m rope is good unless you rap off the 150' first pitch.


Photos of Bit By Bit Slideshow Add Photo
Here comes the sun and some great climbing!
Here comes the sun and some great climbing!
Justin at the start
Justin at the start
Bryan on the first pitch
Bryan on the first pitch

Comments on Bit By Bit Add Comment
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By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 5, 2015

This route is named because of me! My first handrilling experience. I drilled the 2nd bolt on this route and as you can guess I broke a bit. It's been so long I can't remember the details. I think I finished the hole and placed the bolt. Don't remember if it was 1/4" or 3/8". We started this route after work and didn't get to far. I think Tim and Dale finished it on a day I had to work. Tim and Dale were both great guys and climbing partners. I have great memories, although foggy, climbing with them. Dale was the nicest guy ever. He lived a very active and simple life and loved the outdoors. Taken from us way to early.
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