This is the large zigzagging crack that splits the main tower of the Bishop in two. This can be done in one pitch, but some smart rope management is necessary while squirming through some hard moves. There are no good spots to stop and belay when rope drag comes calling.Start up the right slanting ramp and clip the piton bolt hangers (4-5). The foot ramp ends and so does the casual climbing. The crux is 10' of diagonaling offwidth with nothing but blank rock for the right foot (painfully reminiscent of COF but reversed), and barely too wide for good handstacks. It may be possible to layback? Once the crack turns to vertical, 5.8ish chimneying is all that remains. There is little gear for the final 100' save for one old ring piton and a constriction for some cams at 40' and 80' respectively from the start of the chimney. It may be possible to place a #4 Big Bro in the first stretch of chimneying, but it is very secure climbing. We stayed right at the giant block towards the top for the easiest finish.Descend from the summit rap to the east. With one 60m you reach a second rappel, and then the ground.
1-4 Camalots. A rack of Big Bros. A 4.5 Camalot was the most useful. There is abundant fixed gear, but all of it is old.
|By Patrick Peddy|
Dec 20, 2006
One of my favorite wide cracks in the Platte. Next time I'm up there all the antique hardware is coming down (just on the offwidth). Deserving of 3 stars.