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The Ranch Hand
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Biscuits 'n' Gravy T 
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Biscuits 'n' Gravy 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 380'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Page Views: 404
Submitted By: Rick Blair on Oct 2, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Start of the route from the Climbers Access trail....

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fantastic first lead route and should be judged as such, especially pitch 1 and 3. It has abundant gear and belay ledge options. The views of Staunton Park and the surrounding mountains are fantastic.

P1. Follow obvious crack system to pine tree. Either belay above to the right of the tree or head to second smaller tree and belay there. This is mostly 5.2 with a short 5.4 section to belay.

P2. Go left and follow the obvious crack or gully to the second belay at the ledge, 5.4.

P3. Follow slabs to the summit, 5.2.

Location 

Bottom of the Ranch hand. Follow the climber's access trail marked 'CA', pass Bombadier Dome. The next dome you see coming off the trail is the Ranch Hand. Look uphill for the crack leading to the 2 trees.

Protection 

Not necessary, but if you have big gear you could go up to a #5 Camalot or #7 tricam. There are abundant finger to fist gear placements on this route, so you can leave the big stuff at home.


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First belay.
BETA PHOTO: First belay.

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