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Pinnacle Peak
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Birthday Party 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dana Hollister. Chuck Parker. Pete Noebels, 1974
Season: Fall to Spring
Page Views: 2,744
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Birthday Party 5.7
Pinnacle Peak Park

Description 

Birthday Party is a nice mixed face and crack line that will challenge the 5.7 leader nicely. While the route had been climbed literally hundreds of times without incident prior to 1994, two bolts were added to the starting moves before Pinnacle Peak Park opened to protect modern gym climbers.

Start in a shallow right-facing corner at the end of the wall. Some thin face moves lead up past the two low bolts to better holds. Continue up, placing nuts to reach the obvious roof crack above. Jam the overhanging roof crack to easier vertical ground and continue to the top. Belay is set by downclimbing off the back and using cracks in the ledge behind.


Location 

The route is found on the "Upper East Wall" section of Pinnacle Peak, about 150 feet left of the chimney that marks the start of the South Crack route.


Protection 

Nuts, cams from 1/2" to #3 Camalot size.



Photos of Birthday Party Slideshow Add Photo
Moving into the lieback crux move.
Moving into the lieback crux move.
Base of Birthday Party.
BETA PHOTO: Base of Birthday Party.
joe K. and joe J. at the top of the route on a beautiful winter day
joe K. and joe J. at the top of the route on a bea...
Barry with first cam in on roof
BETA PHOTO: Barry with first cam in on roof
Paul leading Birthday party - 5.7
Paul leading Birthday party - 5.7
View of the bottom section, with pro being placed at base of the overhung crack section.
View of the bottom section, with pro being placed ...
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Comments on Birthday Party Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brandon Bogardus
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 3, 2007

Skip the bolts. Cheers for old-school 5.7!!!
If you want, you can bring some gear and set up a top rope. No shame in that.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Feb 6, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The initial slab moves were pretty thin, and that roof is pretty physical for 5.7. Fun route.

By Debbie Vischer
From: Loveland
Feb 15, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Glad to have had the first bolt as there is no place for protection until you are 20+ feet off the ground. Pulling roof was fun... tape not a bad idea as rock is super abbrasive here.

By Sagar Gondalia
From: Golden
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

2nd bolt to crack is runout. The roof is much easier as a standard hand jam roof than a lie back, makes it much closer to the grade than otherwise...

Build your own anchor on top. A great first pitch to the top of pinnacle peak (2nd pitch South Crack)

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Jan 3, 2012

Great day for a GREAT CLIMB!

The jams on this one were good...Drop it, turn it and pull.
Good Stuff!

By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 9, 2012

One of the best climbs at Pinnacle Peak for sure.

By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 3, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Old school Pinnacle Peak 5.7 for 8-10 feet at slight overhung hand crack.