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 ADVANCED
Birthday Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birthday Boulder TR 
Birthday Chimney T,TR 
Birthday Crack T,TR 
Bowing to the Undercling T,TR 
Caesarian Tower T,TR 
Caesarian West Face TR 
Chester's Chimney T,TR 
Doublemint T,TR 
Flux Capacitor Crack T,TR 
Flying Delorean T,TR 
Great White Hope T,TR 
Horner's Corner T,TR 
Left Twin, The T,TR 
Mitzvah T,TR 
Phallacy of Symbolism, The TR 
Right Twin, The T,TR 

Birthday Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,678
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Phil Wilkes finishing up Birthday Crack

Description 

The Birthday Crack is one of the better-known climbs at the Lake. It is a fun and challenging climb with a pretty sustained crack. Start out to the left of the Birthday Chimney (route 10) below the junction of a vertical and horizontal crack. Climb up the vertical crack into the pocket at the junction of the two cracks. Don't get yourself too far back into this pocket or you'll get stuck. Reach high (real high) with both hands and pull up on a juggy hold to get above the pocket. The top half of the climb is slightly easier with a nice sustained 20-foot crack to the top.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Birthday Crack Slideshow Add Photo
John Knoernschild leading Birthday Crack. 4-9-09 <br /> <br />photo by: Paul Campbell
John Knoernschild leading Birthday Crack. 4-9-09

...
Tony gets a good rest in. Photo: Sarah Brengosz
Tony gets a good rest in. Photo: Sarah Brengosz
Carl Sherven cleans up
Carl Sherven cleans up
Birthday Crack (9) and Birthday Chimney (10)
BETA PHOTO: Birthday Crack (9) and Birthday Chimney (10)
Shot of the crack
Shot of the crack
This is a very fun route. Photo: Sarah Brengosz
This is a very fun route. Photo: Sarah Brengosz
The upper, super fun section of Birthday Crack. Photo: Sarah Brengosz
The upper, super fun section of Birthday Crack. Ph...
Doug Hemken leading Birthday Crack
Doug Hemken leading Birthday Crack

Comments on Birthday Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stephen D. Schaefgen
May 5, 2002

The crux is in the first third of the route. At the point where it bulges out where the main vertical crack and a horizontal crack meet. After that, smooth sailing.
By Michael Del Gaudio
Aug 13, 2002

This is on of my favorites. Good clean moves with smooth transitions. The crux is defiantly in beginning, where the vertical and horizontal cracks meet.
By 2SCM
May 25, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a good climb. I was at DL last weekend and climbed it. I feel sorry for the shorter climbers out there like my friend HARRIS manily because if you tall enough there is nice positive grip on the left witch is really easy to reach if your 6.2 but not if your 5.10. although i think the climb was more enjoyable to him.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 31, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great climb! Loved it. A little harder than 5.7 I would say.
By Ishmail
From: Utah
Sep 7, 2007

A great lead! A #3 camalot protects the bulge move if you can slide it high enough w/draw. Fun jams and jugs.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 19, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Agreed Bruce. A great lead! And that #3 camalot is is key for that overhang.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Despite what the route description says, I believe you can really cram yourself into the niche to get a good no hands rest- not that you've climbed that high already but still... And also, instead of reaching really high, which I found to be very awkward, a fist jam is a very appropriate move to make in order to get a little higher up in order to make that reach for the good hold a cleaner move.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Apr 8, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Andy, there's a great hand hold to the right of the off width section. Its sorta hidden and makes getting to the good hold way easier. I didn't see it the first time I did the route.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 8, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

John, I used it last week when I led the route. Placing the #3 exactly where I wanted to jam didn't assist my older beta. But that hold on the right of the crack forces you to come out of your "safe place" and make some cool moves that feel pretty exposed.
By Aaron Wait
Jul 29, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

At the crux, I had a harder time getting my #3 Camalot placed to my satisfaction so I climbed a bit higher and placed a bomber #2. Fun lead!