The Birthday Crack is one of the better-known climbs at the Lake. It is a fun and challenging climb with a pretty sustained crack. Start out to the left of the Birthday Chimney (route 10) below the junction of a vertical and horizontal crack. Climb up the vertical crack into the pocket at the junction of the two cracks. Don't get yourself too far back into this pocket or you'll get stuck. Reach high (real high) with both hands and pull up on a juggy hold to get above the pocket. The top half of the climb is slightly easier with a nice sustained 20-foot crack to the top.
This is a good climb. I was at DL last weekend and climbed it. I feel sorry for the shorter climbers out there like my friend HARRIS manily because if you tall enough there is nice positive grip on the left witch is really easy to reach if your 6.2 but not if your 5.10. although i think the climb was more enjoyable to him.
Agreed Bruce. A great lead! And that #3 camalot is is key for that overhang.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Oct 11, 2010 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
Despite what the route description says, I believe you can really cram yourself into the niche to get a good no hands rest- not that you've climbed that high already but still... And also, instead of reaching really high, which I found to be very awkward, a fist jam is a very appropriate move to make in order to get a little higher up in order to make that reach for the good hold a cleaner move.
Andy, there's a great hand hold to the right of the off width section. Its sorta hidden and makes getting to the good hold way easier. I didn't see it the first time I did the route.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Apr 8, 2011 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
John, I used it last week when I led the route. Placing the #3 exactly where I wanted to jam didn't assist my older beta. But that hold on the right of the crack forces you to come out of your "safe place" and make some cool moves that feel pretty exposed.