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Birdsboro Quarry

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a. Main Wall 
b. Orange Sunshine Wall 
c. Slab Climbs 
d. Zorro Face 
e. Mid Wall 
f. Big Wall 
g. Lebowski Wall 
Ground Up Wall  
h. West Wall 
i. Giant Wall (Long Slabs) 
j. The Wall of Immortals 
k. Reservoir Wall 
l. Lower Climbs (Reservoir Level) 

Rest Day:
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Birdsboro Quarry 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 300'
Location: 40.2539, -75.8139 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 87,388
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: gblauer on Jul 27, 2008
Good Page?6 people like this page. Your opinion:   
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Best routes for YOU in this area Add Area | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
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BETA PHOTO: This is the latest route map (edit: August 2012). ...

Description 

Birdsboro has the most sport climbs of any open area in eastern Pennsylvania, on variable quality diabase rock. The quarry's website is back in action for the latest information, including the current topo.

It's a former quarry located on the north side of Trap Rock in Birdsboro, PA. Use cable bridges to cross Hay Creek twice, and follow the farting climber sign to the climbing areas. There are dozens of bolted sport routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.14. Climbs are located on the upper level and at the resevoir level. There are also multi pitch slab climbs located across the reservoir.

The first climbs here were put up by Bob Perna and friends, by these days it's being developed by Ted Coffelt and company. You can contribute to the bolt fund in a signed drop pipe where the trail reaches the quarry.

A single 60m rope does fine for most climbs here. Only the long slabs on the far wall are two real pitches, you need to do two raps if you do both.

Rock type: Diabase. Since the climbing walls are machine cut, there's more loose rock than in most natural climbing areas.

The Birdsboro Climbing website is the best place to learn about climbing here, and contact the crag's stewards and other Birdsboro climbers. It also has a link to Birdsboro climbing's Facebook group.

The quarry lies is in Birdsboro township. Given their good relationship with the climbing community, it's nice to reciprocate and patronize local merchants on your way in and out of the crag.

The local police occasionally use the quarry as a gun range.


Getting There 

Take 422 west, take a left on 82 into Birdsboro. Ignore the "road closed" signs and go all the way to the closure into Hay Creek Park. Cross the creek twice, using the cables (or walk through the creek). Please do NOT trespass on to Haines and Kibblehouse property.


126 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',34],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',12],['5.8',22],['5.9',26],['5.10',21],['5.11',20],['5.12',10],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Birdsboro Quarry:
Itching to Climb   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   a. Main Wall
Orange Sunshine   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport   b. Orange Sunshine Wall
Jingle Bells   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   a. Main Wall
Bye Bye Bolt   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport   a. Main Wall
Virgin Suicides   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   i. Giant Wall (Long Slabs)
Jenga   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   d. Zorro Face
Battling T-Rex   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 99'   Ground Up Wall
Hinterland (first pitch)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   f. Big Wall
Face O Meter   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport   d. Zorro Face
Jay's   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport   b. Orange Sunshine Wall
Batman   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport   f. Big Wall
Laid Back and Well Hung   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport   f. Big Wall
Hog Nose   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   a. Main Wall
Twisted Sister   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   f. Big Wall
Groovin'   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   f. Big Wall
Zorro   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport   d. Zorro Face
Monkey Boy   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 40'   a. Main Wall
Crackalicious   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   h. West Wall
Hinterland (second anchors)   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   f. Big Wall
The Streak (second anchors)   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 2 pitches, 80'   f. Big Wall
Browse More Classics in Birdsboro Quarry

Featured Route For Birdsboro Quarry
Poised for Peril

Poised for Peril 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a  PA : Birdsboro Quarry : j. The Wall of Immortals
This is a endurance climb. With drilled pockets where needed. Some thin dirty climbing into a obvious roof that you climb out of the left side, crux. And some reachy moves continue to another smaller roof that you move left on as well. Pumpy to the finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Birdsboro Quarry Slideshow Add Photo
JAG fires the crux throw
JAG fires the crux throw
The Annalisa on Twisted Sister
The Annalisa on Twisted Sister
Chris Acosta climbing Magnanimous
Chris Acosta climbing Magnanimous
Matt clipping high on Jenga.
Matt clipping high on Jenga.
Adam making the move on his flash of Faint <br /> <br /> <br />
Adam making the move on his flash of Faint


View of the Wall of the Immortals and the Ground up wall.
View of the Wall of the Immortals and the Ground u...
First of two wire bridges on the approach trail.
BETA PHOTO: First of two wire bridges on the approach trail.
Ignore my butt. the left side was broken but has been in various states of climbable shape at other times.
BETA PHOTO: Ignore my butt. the left side was broken but has b...
Virgin Suicides
Virgin Suicides
Welcome to Birdsboro Rock Quarry.
Welcome to Birdsboro Rock Quarry.
Poised for Peril!!!!
Poised for Peril!!!!
Comments on Birdsboro Quarry Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 22, 2013
By Paul Shultz
From: Hudson, Ma
Feb 28, 2009

Alright climbing. bolts are in good shape are replaced when needed. Wear a helmet! this is an old quarry and I've seen my climbing partner shift 2 coffee table size flakes no problem. Giant wall gets great sun and on a 40 degree sunny day can be quite enjoyable to climb. Does have some ice in winter, though top roping is sketchy to rig. Lower slabs have a tendency to be wet but offer some fun climbs.

BEWARE! Some rock is reglued!

Definitely not best climbing spot in the world, but one of the better ones in Eastern PA!

By vanishing spy
Mar 20, 2009

I'm putting up the route list as listed in the super helpful map someone else put together. I suggest looking at the map.
PLEASE provide positive feedback.

By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Mar 20, 2009

Sweet, thanks. I've been looking for info on individual routes here for years. If you've climbed/seen them, would you mind listing distinguishing features, i.e. crack, corner, etc.

By vanishing spy
Mar 20, 2009

I'll be editing and adding in more information about the routes with some more detailed description of the climbing, bolt counts, anchor descriptions and some photos. Hopefully people do the same and help out. It's pretty tedious getting all these routes up and listed at once.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Mar 23, 2009

If you are going to add all the routes can we please sort them into the specific walls?!?

By vanishing spy
Mar 25, 2009

Luke, if you're interested in creating New Areas for each section at Birdsboro, you can go ahead and make them and fill them with routes.

I thought about creating new areas but decided against it. Birdsboro is kinda small and the idea of creating new areas for each section of the wall, then adding routes didn't seem to make much sense. More importantly, I wanted to be able to search for routes by grade throughout birdsboro using the "Routes best for me" feature. I put the name of the wall each climb is on in the "Location".

By Paul Shultz
From: Hudson, Ma
Apr 2, 2009

More routes have gone up in the last several weeks. The guys who do a lot of the route setting are going to be working on topos and possibly a website.

By TBunn
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 16, 2009

Ill be visting family in PA in few weeks and i think id like to climb here. what kind of traffic does it get mid august? i had no idea there was climbing like this in PA. how big of a rack should i bring? any trad or is it all bolted? Any info is appreciated, thanks.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 5, 2009

Scott M...if you are the Scott that I think you are, please speak up. You know who is doing all the bolting!

By spam231
Sep 27, 2009

LOST: pair of 10.5 anasazis last Monday. hope someone found these as they were no longer at the cliff on Saturday!

Also, does anyone have any beta for King Solomon?

By paclimber
Sep 27, 2009

A website has been created for birdsboro. It is a static site at this time. It presently only has a link to info. on the recently passed annual clean and climb. The site is birdsbororockclimbing.org As I understand it, further site development is forthcoming.

By Paul Brandstetter
From: Harrisburg PA
Oct 5, 2009

GPS to parking area at the cables

N 40.25386 W 75.81385

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 12, 2010

4th Annual Birdsboro CLimb and Clean

All, please join us for the climb and clean at Birdsboro quarry on September 25th/26th. Camping starts on Friday night. We will be cleaning and climbing all day on Saturday. Followed by a community dinner with entertainment and raffle (lots of great gear) on Saturday night at the Pavillion in Rustic Park. Sunday we will resume climbing and finish up any project work.

For those of you with non climbing friends, we will have equipment, ropes, belayers and we will set up some TRs.

All proceeds from the dinner and raffle go to cliff maintenance.

By JEVanHorn
From: Geneva, NY
Oct 20, 2010

Awesome thank you so much. I am very excited to check this place out. There will be a few of us coming down for the weekend to do some climbing.

By JEVanHorn
From: Geneva, NY
Oct 25, 2010

I had a great time over the weekend at the quarry. Thank you to everyone that was very kind and helpful in pointing out good routes to do. I am definitely going to be investing in a helmet for the next time i go there.

By ktlusci
Oct 27, 2010

I climbed at Birdsboro for the first time last weekend. While there, I onsighted Crackalicious- apparently a new 5.13. It was easily the best climb I did that day, but definitely not 5.13. The hardest I've onsighted before was 5.12a at softly rated areas (Red Rock, Potrero). I'm guessing more like an Indian Creek 5.11.

By Chris Acosta
Dec 4, 2010

Hi my names Chris and I bolted Crackalicious. I would like to say awesome job to Ktlusci for being the first person to onsight Crackalicious. However I beleive the grade to be a 12b to 12c, especially if you consider all the grades of other climbs at the bird. Def. not a 13 as listed.One other person redpointed it before you, and I have the first accent on Trad gear. But Im very impressed that you got the onsight . Hope to see you out at the bird sometime in the spring. As for now cant wait for ice!!!

By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Jun 3, 2011

It is hard to compare an IC corner to Crackalicious. IC routes are more about overall fitness and sustained low-intensity movement, while Crackalicious has a definite crux move. I think that once/if Crackalicious receives more traffic its grade will fall into the 5.12 range.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 23, 2011

5th Annual Birdsboro Climb and Clean

All, please join us for the climb and clean at Birdsboro quarry on September 16th-18th. Camping starts on Friday the 16th. We will be cleaning and climbing all day on Saturday. Followed by a community dinner with entertainment and raffle (lots of great gear) on Saturday night at the Pavillion in Rustic Park. Sunday we will resume climbing and finish up any project work.

For those of you with non climbing friends, we will have equipment, ropes, belayers and we will set up some TRs.

All proceeds from the dinner and raffle go to cliff maintenance.

By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Nov 15, 2011

I just heard that there was an accident at Birdsboro 5 weeks ago where a climber had a bolt blow, decked and broke her back. Does anyone have information on this accident or know where I can find some details?

A lot of my gym friends climb here and I am always worried for them.

By MojoMonkey
Nov 15, 2011

I think the accident you heard of was not a broken bolt, but a broken carabiner. The bolt end carabiner of the draw broke and looked like the nose-hooked failures shown here.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 16, 2011

Mojo, thanks for sharing the Black Diamond link.

Anthony, I know two climbers recovering from fractures that happened on falls at Birdsboro this summer. Fortunately both of them are recovering well. I also know a near miss happened this year on Jenga, where a falling rock severed the end of a rope, but in lucky circumstances where nobody was hurt.

These, and prior years' rappelling accidents, remind us to climb smart. All of these accidents involve common and inherent risks of sport climbing, and could have happened at any sport crag. I always wear a helmet at Birdsboro now, and read climbing accident reports to become aware of unsafe climbing habits I might have.

But Anthony, I wouldn't worry about your friends climbing here unless they're reckless about it. I've known people who fractured bones in gym falls.

By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Nov 18, 2011

Thanks Mojo, Justin.

I confirmed that it was a nose-hook failure.

Always wear a helmet!

By chopsticktown
From: Blandon, PA
Jan 7, 2012

Found a shoe in the parking lot today. If its yours please describe it and i will return it to you.

By Graver
Mar 22, 2012

Will be in the area and looking for a partner(s) 4-7 APR. Can lead up thru 10s but am happy climbing at any grade. PM me at rgraver9106@hotmail.com if available or w suggestions.


Bob

By Peter Borden
From: nyc, ny
Apr 9, 2012

What's the story with routes in the bigwall section? Like, what length rope would I need to do the climbs in 1 pitch? Also, what's the deal with the gun range?

By Larry S
Apr 10, 2012

Pete - the local police occasionally use the quarry as a gun range. A 60m rope will do fine with the lower offs on the big wall - It's not really two pitches... it's just got first anchors and second anchors. The long slabs are two real pitches, you need to do two raps if you do both.

By jedi-diah
Mar 11, 2013

Car key lost:

I lost a black Mazda car key somewhere at birdsboro (probably the parking area) yesterday 3/10/13.

Please pass it around so if it turns up I might get it back.

By Gaz Leah
Apr 10, 2013

Hey Guys,

I'm looking to head up to the quarry from NYC this friday and am looking to stay for the weekend. Is camping allowed at the quarry or nearby? if not can someone recommend somewhere to stay for 5 people, preferably camping.

Cheers

Gaz

By Larry S
Apr 10, 2013

Gaz - See here. mountainproject.com/v/birdsboro-camping/107577736

By Gaz Leah
Apr 11, 2013

Thanks Larry,

Is there a local hang out for climbers here? A bar they like etc so we can catch up with some locals. I'd love to talk to them about the quarry

By Gaz Leah
Apr 18, 2013

I visited Birdsboro last weekend and I don't really know what to say. did 2 of the best 5.12's i've ever climbed! Admittedly there's a bit of loose rock but the majority is bomber. The scenic views and the awesome locals make this place a MUST GO destination. especially if venturing out from NYC.

To the birdsboro bolters, top job lads!

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 22, 2013

Thanks to all who attended our 7th Annual Climb and Clean

We had a great event this year. Thanks to all of you who helped with projects, joined us for dinner and purchased raffle tickets and memberships.

See you next year and visit our new website:
www.birdsboroclimbing.com