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The Eyrie Sector
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Birds of Prey (approach) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: RMWright and ABS, Summer 2014
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of the Halidome
Page Views: 163
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 18, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Birds of Prey approach to the Eyrie Sector.

Description 

Birds of Prey is a two pitch approach route to the Eyrie Sector. The climbing was overall much better than suggested by examination from the ground and certainly could be climbed independently. Please check the description of the Eyrie Sector; there is an easy scramble from the top of P2 to gain the ledge system adjacent to the Eyrie Sector proper. It should not be too difficult to string both of the BOP pitches together, just use some slings to reduced rope drag higher up. To descend, rap the line to the trail or the base ledge.

P1, 65 feet, 5.11. Chase the bolts up a calf burning slab to a crux corner. Climbing on this pitch was much better than imagined from the ground. There is good rock throughout. Depending on how you do it, the crux could be either easy 5.11 or middle 5.11, but it seemed a lot easier on repeat.

P2, 70 feet, 5.10+. Chase more bolts to the streaked slab above. While it looks appealing to climb the slab directly, this is quite blank, and the corner on the right provides usable but slopy handholds. This last bit could also be done entirely left of the bolts if that is desirable. There is good rock throughout.

Location 

It is about 200 feet before the Catwalk proper. Scramble up from the trail to a good ledge at the base.

Protection 

P1 nine draws and something for the double bolt anchor. P2 ten draws and something for the double bolt anchor.


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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 25, 2014

August 24, 2014: I did not have a chance to pull the old ground line evident in the picture. It has been around for a while and might best be avoided or used sparingly. It runs to the old rap line and not to the top of BOP, so it's not much use for getting down to the BOP rap.