Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Wombat
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birds in a Rut T 
North-East Sramble T 
Santiam Highway Ledges T 
Unsorted Routes:

Birds in a Rut 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ryan Lawson, Darin Chadwick 1998
Page Views: 1,376
Submitted By: JGHarrison on Oct 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Final pitch of Birds in a Rut.

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Very fun route. great step up for folks looking to get a bit more air under their heels. Anchors are bolted. This route involves a bit of route-finding that I found quite enjoyable. Its not tough to find the way, but you may have to look around for a few minutes here and there.

Pitch 1: Start left of little juniper tree below the slab. Start with a bolted pitch of low angle 5.5-5.6 climbing. End at a little alcove. You can fit three folks here but its a bit tight.

Pitch 2: Continue on up the bolted second pitch of similar climbing to a huge ledge.

Pitch 3: (Note this not a technical pitch, its more of a 2nd class scramble) Walk to the right, then switchback and head up a ledge system till you get to the next anchors. You may have to explore a bit, but you will find them.

Pitch 4: From the anchor, step left out of the alcove and enjoy an airy traverse that leads to a fist crack. This tops out into a massive ledge system. This pitch has a few bolts but you will want to throw a couple cams into the fist crack. This puts you on another large ledge.

Pitch 5: This pitch finds you looking at a nice dihedral with a hand sized crack. This crack goes at about 5.7 and is the definite crux of the route. As you belay your partners ensure you don't knock any loose rocks onto them.

Pitch 6: This pitch is a bit rambly. Go uphill and you will find a bulging section of rock to climb up and then head over a low angle slab to the top. You could wander left on a ledge system to get there as well. I found going over the bulge harder, but less exposed.

Descent: Rappel off the backside. Single pitch rappel.

All anchors are bolted on this route.

Location 

This route is on the northwest face of the Wombat. From the parking lot the wombat is that big hulking rock way off on the top of the marsupials. Follow the main trail down into the valley, cross the bridge and head left. Eventually the trail gets to a spot where the old stretcher is housed. Head left and uphill from here, the trail immediately splits. Take the left fork, follow some switchbacks and eventually end up at a canal. An old dirt road keeps switch-backing uphill behind the canal and up to the marsupials. Keep heading uphill until you get up even with the Wombat. (Again the Wombat is the biggest of the pinnacles at the very top of the ridge.)Head on over. The route is on the northwest face. Look for a bolted slab with a little juniper tree next to it. Its a long hike, but a good mini-adventure of a climb.

Protection 

Cams to 3 inches, a few nuts are good as well. A modest rack should serve you well.


Comments on Birds in a Rut Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route can be done in essentially three pitches. Bring lots of double- and single-runners.

String together pitches 1&2&3 with a 60m using single-runners on the wandering bolt(s) of the first pitch, double (or skip) the anchor and the two following bolts, and single those afterwards. The 5.7 variation is really about 5.4, and I was completely unable to find anything for a camalot between .5-2"... so bring medium nuts or run it out.

The anchor atop the "third" pitch is on the ground, which sucks, so I chose to build a gear anchor in the cracks up and to the right, which puts it more in line with the route. There will still be fairly moderate rope drag, but it's worth it in my opinion.

We protected the "fourth" pitch with a .75, 3, and 1" camalot... the rest of the pitch is easy, straightforward, and covered in lichen. Oh yeah, make sure you use single and double-runners on this pitch as well.

The "fifth" pitch is the money pitch. Move your belayer over to the single bolt that is out of the direct fall line. I ran out the first slabby bit, as the left-hand crack is really junky, and the climbing is easy. The tight dihedral makes climbing with a rack a bit of a pain, but you will want a lot of medium-large nuts and cams from .3-3".

From here, you can ditch the rope. There is little/no protection to get up onto the ledge above, and no anchors. Honestly, it's safer to just solo it. Once up here, there's a short crack which is essentially a V0 boulder problem. With a spotter, you're perfectly safe. Once onto the shoulder, it's an easy scramble up to the summit. You will have to downclimb to the top of the dihedral, which is really exposed... but pretty easy.

To rappel, use the fatty hangers at the top of the dihedral to descend to the ledge below. Traverse downhill (south) to a webbing anchor and rappel over the lip, past the first ledge, to a second huge ledge. If you're interested, there is a .10b to the right which looks wicked. From here, walk right (north) until you switchback down into a pair of caves. The last rappel anchor is on the far side of this lowest ledge. It will put you down about 40 yards from the juniper tree.

As for the approach... take the path down towards Picnic Lunch Wall, turn right, follow it to the Burma Road, continue uphill to Koala Rock, continue up the left (north) side through a scree slope from hell, then follow a path directly up to the Wombat, traverse towards the north (about 300 yards) until you see a scraggly juniper next to a detached boulder below a bolt line. Go up. From parking lot, about an hour.

This route gets morning shade, and the belays can be in the shade all day if you seek it out.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

THIS IS NOT A GRADE III!

You can rappel from (almost) every anchor at every ledge, and each one will take you directly downwards to another ledge with another anchor.
By Kev
Apr 4, 2013

We did Santiam Hwy the other day. All the way to the top to where Birds come up. We walked off.....well more of a downclimb. But no exposure probably 5.6 (last move) to downclimb. Mostly 4th class.....
By Forrest Koran
Oct 8, 2013

is the walkoff on the north side or south? we were able to do a double rope rappel off the north side, but I didn't see an obvious walkoff back to the start without detouring all the way around