Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T,S 
Bad Boys Bolt T 
Beer for Breakfast T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 
Birdland T 
Black Market T 
Blackstreak TR 
Dirty Love T 
Fun Flake T 
Funkativity T 
Go Spuds Go T 
Good Girls Don't T 
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 
Shadow Dance S 
Slab Happy S 
Sugar Mountain T 
Two Minds Meet T 
Wigs on Fire T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Birdland 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J. Bassett, D. Braddy, 1982
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Birdland in Red, Jazzman in Green, and Beer for Br...

Description 

The right side of the Lower Tier of the South Slabs, while it seems steep, is well-featured enough to allow for a couple of very enjoyable, moderate face routes, of which Birdland is one.

Begin near a crystalline pothole of sorts in the wall beneath three overly-close bolts - clip the second with a long sling (you'll likely regret clipping the first due to rope drag issues near the top of the pitch), and make some 8/9 moves directly left into a bejeweled groove. Step up the groove, passing a couple bolts along the way, until a crack in a right-facing feature is visible just to the left. Make crux friction moves left to this crack, sink a couple nuts, and then run it through more thin friction moves, stepping left into a water streak before gaining easier ground to the belay bolts.

Location 

Birdland is one of two moderate slab lines on the right margin of the Lower Tier of the South Slab. The start is easily identified by a pothole in the wall with two closely-spaced bolts immediately above. The line continues up a crystalline groove six feet left of the initial bolts.

Protection 

4 bolts (clip the first one if you really feel like, avoid it to minimize drag) and a set of stoppers will get you through this pitch. You also might want to bring along a good set of nuts.

Per Mojo Stylee: "all anchors and anchor bolts and chains have been removed for all of the climbs in this immediate area, from Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry through Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland); most bolts if not all at this point have been removed."


Comments on Birdland Add Comment
Show which comments
By chad09
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 16, 2010

There is only 4 bolts? In the new guide book by Craig Luebben, Cameron Cross, and Bennett Scott it says it has been retrobolted w/ 11 bolts. Is this a different route or have some been removed?
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Feb 19, 2010

Indeed - only four bolts; the guidebook also states that these routes diverge after the sixth shared bolt, when they in fact separate after their second shared bolt.