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Birdland 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Limage, Chris Burton 2001
Page Views: 41,024
Submitted By: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? on Nov 19, 2005

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Gigi flys up Birdland p1.

Description 

A beautiful climb with a a variety of moves. This route is nice to do in the cooler months, as it's in the sun all day. Approach as to "The Brass Wall." This route is on "Brass Wall Left." The first pitch is also the start of a climb called "The Big Horn." Starts on a ledge with a single scrub oak.

Pitch 1: Climb the obvious crack which shoots up to the big ledge. Continue up the well-protected varnished crack/face with lots of features for hands and feet. This pitch loves nuts! Climb straight up to the big ledge with a scrub oak. Bolted anchors. 5.6.

Pitch 2: Stay right of the chimney (the chimney to the left of the anchors is the start of pitch 2 of The Big Horn.) Start on the face above the anchors. Climb up to a left-facing corner. There are a couple of little offwidth moves in this section. Stay right at the top of the chimney, stepping out of the alcove, then move left into the crack, climbing up to a ledge with loose rock and a bolted anchor. 5.7.

Pitch 3: Climb up about 10 feet and look to your left, for a left-leaning, right-facing corner/ramp. Follow the fun, narrow ramp, continuing to traverse left, to a protection bolt. The pro a little tricky before the bolt: nuts in not too obvious seams. Move a little left of the bolt, then go straight up to the thin right-facing corner and up right to a ledge with bolted anchors. 5.7+.

Pitch 4: Climb up and traverse right about 20-30 feet heading for black varnished face holds. Climb up the black varnished face, following the path of least resistance, to a belay at a small stance. The P4 belay can not be seen until about 15 feet from it. A good amount of gear can be had on this pitch. 5.6.

Note: Don't go straight up from the belay; the climbing peters out into unprotectable face climbing on less than inspiring white/orange rock.

Pitch 5: From the belay look up and right 60 feet or more for a light brown 2-3 ft roof (about 20-30 feet to the right of the belay). Birdland goes just left of the edge of that roof and up the nice crack that is above the roof and out of sight. This pitch ends with a beautiful finger crack to a triangular stepping stool to reach the anchors. The last moves to the belay are the crux. Fight for this pitch! 5.7+.

Note: On pitch 5 do not go up and left. From the belay one can see white slings on an anchor about 30-40 feet left. This anchor is for a new route and not Birdland.

Pitch 6: 5.7R, that I haven't done, which consists of climbing on loose rock, to an anchor. If someone would like to post the beta for pitch 6, that'll be great. [admin's note: best to pass on pitch 6-- loose rock directly above the belayer, minimal pro, etc. Way out of character with the rest of the route.]

Rap the route with two ropes or with one 70m rope.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3". Bring a good selection of nuts and plenty of long runners as the route wanders a bit.


Photos of Birdland Slideshow Add Photo
Topo of Birdland, Spectrum area, Red Rocks Nevada.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Birdland, Spectrum area, Red Rocks Nevada.
This is the only reason I climbed this route!! November 2007
This is the only reason I climbed this route!! Nov...
Chuck on the p5 finger crack
Chuck on the p5 finger crack
On Birdland
On Birdland
Anne enjoying the finger crack atop pitch 5
Anne enjoying the finger crack atop pitch 5
Deb just clipped the bolt on P3, now movin' on & up!
Deb just clipped the bolt on P3, now movin' on & u...
Birdland, showing the first five pitches. <br /> <br />Edited to show the usual first pitch. An alternate start, up a wider crack to the right, is shown in red.
BETA PHOTO: Birdland, showing the first five pitches.

Edited ...
C. Brown cleaning the first pitch of Birdland
C. Brown cleaning the first pitch of Birdland
Leading up the fourth pitch. November 2012.
Leading up the fourth pitch. November 2012.
Sharon Vinick on the fun ramp at the start of P3.  The crux traverse left past a bolt lies above, followed by a steep, airy corner.
Sharon Vinick on the fun ramp at the start of P3. ...
Looking back at Jon Hanlon at P4 belay of Birdland.
Looking back at Jon Hanlon at P4 belay of Birdland...
Sharon Vinick on the featured face near the top of P4.  The climbers below are at the top of P3.
Sharon Vinick on the featured face near the top of...
Sharon Vinick working up the steep crack on P5 of Birdland.
Sharon Vinick working up the steep crack on P5 of ...
Looking down at the unknown climber from pitch 5
Looking down at the unknown climber from pitch 5
Brent Peters nearing the top of pitch 5.  The climbing is sustained and delicate from here to the belay.
Brent Peters nearing the top of pitch 5. The clim...
Loving the Exposure
Loving the Exposure
Birdland, pitch 1 variations. The first pitch as listed in the Brock guidebook follows the leftmost crack system (yellow dots). An alternate start follows a wider crack to the right (red dots).  Both variations are about the same difficulty.
BETA PHOTO: Birdland, pitch 1 variations. The first pitch as l...
Birdland Area Variations <br />1) Pazookieland Variation <br />2) Bighorn <br />3) Lower Birdland Variations
BETA PHOTO: Birdland Area Variations
1) Pazookieland Variation...
Birdland (in the background), seen from The Bighorn.
Birdland (in the background), seen from The Bighor...
5th pitch. Photo by L. Roll
5th pitch. Photo by L. Roll
Mike Morley traverses out left on P3 of Birdland.
Mike Morley traverses out left on P3 of Birdland.
Birdland awash in climbers on March 23rd.  Fun route, but very crowded -- even on a weekday!
Birdland awash in climbers on March 23rd. Fun rou...
Tamara wrapping up the exciting traverse on p3; bighorn in background
Tamara wrapping up the exciting traverse on p3@SEM...
Mind blowinly good last pitch.
Mind blowinly good last pitch.

Show All 53 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Birdland Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 1, 2014
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 20, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is easily rappelled with a single 70m, and I highly suspect that a single 60m would work as well, but havent attempted it yet.

By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Nov 20, 2005

I don't think a single 60 meter rope will reach from atop pitch 2's anchors down to pitch one's anchors, and if you came up short you'd have to downclimb one of two chimneys.
By Matt Faust
Nov 22, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I'm 95% sure that we rapped straight from the P3 belay to the P1 belay with a single 60, and only had to downclimb a short bit of that easy chimney. It worked very well for us.

This route is great, love the 2nd and 3rd pitches.
By Jason D. Martin
Nov 22, 2005

There are three variations for the second pitch. The first variation is that which is described. The second is to climb the chimney -- which I think is a lot more fun than the face -- and the third is to climb the arete to the left of the chimney.

I have never climbed the arete. Does anyone know how hard it is?

It is NOT possible to rappel pitch five with a sixty meter rope. Both the first and the second pitch require downclimbing with a single sixty as well.

The sixth pitch is not worth doing.

Lastly, many parties blast up Birdland and ignore the Bighorn handcrack off to the left. The crack pitch of Bighorn is well worth doing while you're up there.

Jason
By Matt Faust
Nov 23, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Oops, Jason you jogged my memory. Above I said we rapped from P3 to P1, but that's obviously not true. I remember lusting after the Big Horn handcrack, but it looked pretty tough from my vantage. How hard is that crack, Jason?
By Jason D. Martin
Nov 25, 2005

The Bighorn Crack is 5.8.

Jason
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Dec 9, 2005

What is the correct name of Joe Herbst's route? Is it The Big Horn or The Bighorn? I've seen it written both ways . If I have it wrong in my description, I apologize.
By phil broscovak
Dec 12, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Birdland is a totally fabulous route! One of my favorite routes in RR. Jorge Urioste took our kids on a nature hike so Julia and I could relax and enjoy the climb. I don't know if my ankle-biting rug rats will ever fully appreciate what an honor it was to be tour guided by a legend, but Julia and I still break into perma-grins thinking about that day. THANK YOU Jorge! The finger crack on the fifth pitch is not to be missed! The belay stance is wild. I can only imagine the sphincter puckering that took place when whatever stood atop the triangle ledge cut loose. It is totally clean and scenic now. Jorge told me the fourth pitch while easy was unprotected. Probably because most of the hard cores just 3rd class through it. On the other hand I was able to essentially lace it up with decent gear every fifteen feet or less. Probably because I am anything but hard core. The climbing on every pitch of Birdland is aesthetic and varied. This climb is a real treat for the senses. Be careful running and pulling rap ropes around pitch three.
By Michael Allen
Jan 30, 2006

If you don't have a 70m rope, and you don't want to bring a second rope for the rappels, it is possible to get down with one 60m rope if you don't mind a little minor downclimbing.
(Disclaimer: I didn't climb the sixth pitch but the Brock/McMillen book says it's only 80 feet long so a 60m would be more than adequate if that's true.)
Anyhow, here's how we did it from the anchor at the top of pitch five:
From P5 anchor I rapped straight down the face towards the P4 anchor. When I reached the knots I'd tied in the rope ends I was just a couple feet above the P4 anchor bolts. I easily reached down and clipped myself straight in to one of the bolts. I then took myself off rappel and stepped down to the P4 belay stance.
From P4 anchor to P3 anchor the rope reached easily.
From P3 anchor to the large ledge with the P2 anchor the rope again reached easily.
From the P2 anchor I rapped down and into the chimney that is the start of the second pitch of The Big Horn route. I took myself off rappel about ten feet shy of the large P1 belay ledge. From there it was an easy, unexposed downclimb to the ledge.
From the anchors atop P2 I rapped straight down towards the base of the climb. Again I had to take myself off rappel about ten feet shy of the ground, but once again it was an easy, unexposed downclimb to reach the ground.
(Reminder: Don't forget to tie stopper knots in the rope ends before each rappel!)
By Tim Baguley
Feb 1, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Route may be safely rappelled with a 70m rope. You can also rap the route with a single 60m rope, but you will need to do a bit of down-climbing (or reaching out to clip into anchor bolts from the bottom of the rope) on a couple pitches...I don't recommend this for inexperienced climbers. If you do rap the route with a 60m rope, MAKE SURE TO TIE STOPPER KNOTS in the end of the rope!
By marc rosenthal
From: San Antonio, TX
Feb 21, 2006

Regarding the Bighorn pitch on the left: This is a great pitch with big moves and good pro. However, above the pitch is one of the worst anchor stations I have ever seen. There is a two/three bolt set up with a hanger on one side and no hanger on the other. Due to the location of the hanger and the nearest natural pro, it is better to set pro in the rock than use the anchor, since it is hard to equalize. If anyone knows if this anchor has been improved, please update.
By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Mar 7, 2006

The beta in the new fat red guidebook is a little off, I think, on P4. It says to look for a right-facing corner by a roof, where I think most climbers would refer to that feature as a crack (by a roof).

There is an obvious anchor with slings almost directly above the P3 belay. This is not the Birdland anchor, so stay right as per route description. The P4 anchor isn't visible until you're over a bulge and almost to it.

Very catchy route for rapping.
By karl g wilcox
From: las vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2006

Bighorn should really be considered a Red Rock 5.9. Good pro, but a bit thin to qualify for a 5.8. Cheers, Karl Wilcox
By James R. Arnold
Apr 15, 2006

Climbed this route last week with Joe Chorny. We only had the Swain book (which doesn't have Birdland) so had to use this website to get info on the route. The pictures and description here allowed us to find the base of the route but honestly the info on the 4th and 5th pitches is misleading and could use improvement.

From the top of the third pitch the route moves more than slightly right - it is more like 20-30 feet right. Look up and right for black varnished face holds. Slightly up and right from the belay peters out into unprotectable face climbing on less than inspiring white/orange rock. The P4 belay can not be seen until about 15 feet from it. There was very little chalk on this pitch to give hint of being on route. A good amount of gear can be had on this pitch.

On pitch 5 do not go up and left. From that belay one can see white slings on an anchor about 30-40 feet left (mentioned in previous post here). This anchor is for a new route and not Birdland. It turns out the FA person on that route (Karl Wilcox) was there that day and told us where to go on Birdland's 5th pitch. From the belay look up and right 60 feet or more for a light brown 2-3 ft roof (about 20-30 feet to the right of the belay). Birdland goes just left of the edge of that roof and the nice crack is above that and out of sight.

Overall the route was pretty good - we'd give it 2-2.5 stars. For grade 7+ is reasonable. There felt like there were a couple of 8 moves on the route - one on the third pitch past the bolt and the last move on pitch 5 but the rest was 6 or 7.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Apr 15, 2006

James,
Thanks for your beta. I will be sure to update the info. for pitch 4 and 5, but will first try to consult with Mark Limage (FA of Birdland) in order to be as accurate as we can.
Or... if one more climber, familiar with Birdland can attest to your beta, I'll change it right away.
My poor partner led pitch 4, and I know he (and probably others) would have liked more pro opportunities on that pitch, such as beta that you have described.
Interesting about new routes by Birdland; you sneaky climbers, you!!
And Silly James...there's no "8" moves on this climb,.....(:])
By phil broscovak
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hello Gigette,
I would agree that both pitch 4 and pitch 5 involve significant movement to the right. Of the two, pitch 4 traverses the furthest right. If you were to drop plumb bobs from the start and end points of pitch 4 it would easily be 25 feet or more. I have led that pitch twice and have found sufficient good gear to feel fairly at ease. It is an up and over route and gear finding adventure. Yes there are spans of no pro but by tying together discontinuous cracks with tricams, wired stoppers and long slings(perhaps double ropes to reduce drag)it is a safe pitch. I really think it is a great pitch if you are looking around with an open eye. Pitch 5 does start out going up and right to the "cool" crack in the roof and the abondanza above.
And I personally would endorse an overall 5.8 rating for the route.
As a side comment to all, rap how you will but know how to handle a stuck rope. This climb has a practical joker's sense about its ability to catch ropes. This route is popular so use caution when yanking stuck ropes off of flakes.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Apr 16, 2006

Thanks Phil and James!
At the time my partner and I climbed route, we had little information on pitches 3-6. Neither of us had done Birdland before. We were actually planning on climbing 'Big Horn' that day, but was not looking forward to the sustained nature of that beautiful "old school" Joe Herbst route.
Re: Birdland..pitches 4 and 5, we took a fairly direct line (only traversed slightly right on pitch 4, and on pitch 5, I did end up right at the fun, beautiful fingercrack section. Looks like there are more pro opportunities per your beta of Birdland's pitch 4 and 5.
I'll have to climb route again, using your beta to see if I'll still award it 4 stars, as there is quite a bit of traversing and more of a wandery nature to Birdland's upper pitches(4 and 5)than what my partner and I did.
By James R. Arnold
Apr 16, 2006

Thanks for updating the description Gigi - this should help future parties on the route. I guess since you can call me "silly" I can call you "Gigi"?
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Apr 16, 2006

You got me all excited to do Birdland again, but Big Horn is next on my list if I'm up that way.
I was able to do the first two pitches of Big Horn,after work with Jonny, which was long after I had done B.L.(B.T.W.,That's when Jonny took that "Gigi" photo of me above on first pitch).I did Birdland with another partner of mine. Since my nickname is out in the open now, you can proceed to call me Gigi, silly James.

P.S. Big Horn does look thin and 5.9ish, as Karl mentioned above, but that's an old school Joe Herbst route for ya! If anyone has done Big Horn, can you write up a description on it?
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2006

Rather than replace the old description of the top pitches, I'd prefer that it remain described as a variation. Or maybe add it as a separate route "Birdland Variation". It's nice to know what all the options are.
By James R. Arnold
Apr 21, 2006

George

The route info Phil and I provided is the true route for Birdland and as such should be reflected in the main description. When the new route is completed to the left (at 5.7+ so says Karl the FA person) then it can be described as a variation.

Gigi - on the main description at some point it should be consolidated and mention of lowly me can be removed. It is not like I'm an authority on RR. Perhaps after you climb Birdland again you can update the description as you see fit.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Apr 21, 2006

Sounds good James about consolidating later on (after I climb it again, and after Karl's new route listed for variation to B.L.).
P.S. You're not silly anymore.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2006

An ultra-classic route that will become extremely popular once word gets out. Climb it now before the crowds arrive!

There is a well-cairned trail all the way up to the route. At the end, sneak left under a big chockstone next to the wall to get to a spacious ledge system below the climb. The landmark for the route is the scrub oak on a ledge about 110' up, and a crack with lots of face holds that goes straight up to the right side of the tree.

I thought the first pitch was very easy; it felt more like 5.4 or 5.5 with all the face holds around the crack.

The anchor atop the second pitch is a knotted sling and quick link attached to two offset bolts. The equalization on this anchor isn't perfect for rappelling; it needs to be fixed. Another quick link (or rap rings) should be added. Even better, put chains on the bolts.

The revised route description is spot on; we had no trouble staying on route on the 4th and 5th pitches. Ample chalk marks the way. The crux of the climb is the last move to the belay on the fifth pitch: thin cracks and a smooth varnished face (5.7+ to 5.8). The rest of the climb is enjoyable 5.5 to 5.7. We didn't do the sixth pitch.

A 70m rope is the way to go, with fewer rappelling hassles than two ropes. Be careful pulling the rope from the anchor atop the second pitch to avoid getting the rope hung up in the chimney.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2006

P2 rap anchor discussion moved to Birdland P2 Rappel Anchor.
By Bill Gibbs
From: Andover, Ks.
Oct 27, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A better description for the approach would be to disregard the standard approach for Brass Wall. Instead, continue on the main trail and after you have passed Brass Wall "Left", and started the switchbacking for Darkshadows area, look for a couple of huge, light colored boulders with darker spots all over them. Near those boulders look for a trail off to the right and follow the cairns.

My partner and I got rained off just as I was 15' out on the 4th pitch lead, so we didn't get to finish the route. However, the first 3 pitches are well worth climbing again and I will go back next time out and finish it. The Bighorn crack pitch looks super and hope to get on that as well.

On the 3rd pitch, the traverse to and past the bolt sews up great with small aliens. I remember a perfect blue alien placement under a solid flake to get past the bad "splat" swing potential before clipping the bolt. You should probably be solid at 5.8 leading on this pitch, have a strong lead head, or just don't look back before clipping the bolt if you can't sew it up.

Be careful on the rope eating rappels. Had to re-climb and down climb half of pitch 2 because of stuck rope on rappel.
By Jason C.
From: Las Vegas
Dec 4, 2006

great route... lot of fun, fight for p. 5!!! get there early to beat the crowds... the route is getting very popular!
By karl wilcox
From: Cleburne,Texas
Feb 12, 2007

Just a suggestion to anyone who finds that they can't get on Birdland due to crowding (and the crowding can get quite heavy) Rawlpindi is a nice alternative, and it is not really a variation to Birdland as it follows an independent line to the left. The climbing is similar, but protecting the 4th pitch takes a bit of ingenuity with placing cams in pods and pockets between the bolts. Someone may want to put some lap links on the rap anchors on Rawlpindi, as I placed the current grey slings about 9 months ago--
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 15, 2007

what an absolutly fun as hell route!!!...

no hard moves what so ever, but a few moves requiring a little thought...

Pitch three is blast!!!...
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 15, 2007

Just to confirm what others have said, a single 60 meter rope is fine for this route. The only difficulties are stretching the first rap down to the top of pitch 4 and down-climbing the last ten feet to the top of pitch 2. Neither situation is serious enough to justify a second rope.
A great route; every pitch is excellent!
By Josh Audrey
From: LAS VEGAS
Mar 15, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

no doubt this was a fun day.if you are even considering doing cat in the hat, blow it off and take a ride up birdland way more fun. my friend and i headed up today and heard a traffic jam up at cat and the hat while we were chillin at a nice pace with nobody else above or below us.great moderate climb.
By Barry Collins
Mar 28, 2007

Just back from Red Rocks and a run up the "Bird". Beautiful route! In anticipation of the expected rope stretching 60 meter rap off the last pitch, I did the following: Tied a corda-lette to the anchors at the top of pitch 4, then I led up about 10 ft. and used a nut to "fix" the corda-lette to the bottom of the pitch 5 finger crack. Then on the rap, I simply reached over, clipped into the corda-lette, ran the rap knots right up against my rap device (use beefy knots and a biner through them). Still had to go inverted to reach the bolts though!!! Climbing down the 3 moves to the bolts is easy too. Bottom line is go with the 60 meter rope if that's what you have!!! Follow Bill's advice on the approach, worked well for us.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Oct 10, 2007

Fun Climb, the crack on the third pitch, and final crack on pitch 5 are the highlights of the climb. Just enough to keep you interested. Very easy approach for RR. Just another great RR 5.7
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 24, 2007

My partner and I rapped this with a single 60 m and it was no problem (we took the Michael Allen comments as good to go, and they were!). If you can lead this climb, you can easily downclimb the two short sections of 5.4/5.5 on the last two raps; they both are only about 7-10 feet of secure and easy moves. I don't see the point in hauling a second rope for this route.

This route was very good; my only wish is that there had been more sustained climbing at the upper end of the grade on most of the pitches.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 21, 2008

I was a little disappointed after all the fanfare this route gets. Still, a nice route in a really cool place with some great moves for a 5.7. Even though I know everything on this route has been yarded on I felt the route still had that fragile feeling (I won't be soloing it anytime soon).

If your squeemish there is one "close call" rappel if your using a 60m up high but I found the other belays to be quite easy to navigate a downclimb.

Oh, and be sure and get your own copy of the guidebook photo on the second to last pitch fingercrack.
By raygay
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Mar 9, 2008

Birdland is becoming more and more popular. On nice days you are likely to have company. You can avoid rapping down onto parties climbing P4 and P5 below you by continuing past the P5 anchor to the nearby anchor at the top of Rawlpindi. Instead of stopping on the small slanted shelf on Birdland's P5 anchor, continue up and left about 40 feet to the Rawlpindi 2-bolt anchor (after checking to be sure no one is coming up Rawlpindi) and belay your follower at the Rawlpindi anchor. It's a one rope rappel to the next 2-bolt anchor below on Rawlpindi. Then use two ropes to rappel down to the anchor on the little ledge at the top of Birdland's P3.
By Greg Barnes
Apr 12, 2008

marc rosenthal - vegastradguy and I replaced the Big Horn anchor this February (2008).
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 5, 2008

Don't forget the thin gear. Bring small stoppers and small tcus if you're close to your limit.
By Bruce Bindner
Nov 27, 2008

Topos of this route are hard to find, so I posted one here. Comments and corrections are appreciated.

Brutus
By Ron Graham
Jan 30, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Stay alert when you are on pitch 4 if there are climbers above you. A couple that did the 6th pitch accidentally trundled one of the loose stones up there past us. It would have been deadly if it had hit anyone. For this reason, I'd suggest not trying to do the 6th pitch if you have any other teams climbing below you.

The stances at the top of the first 4 pitches are big enough to comfortably fit a group of 3 climbing together. However, the small, triangular shelf at the top of pitch 5 is only big enough for two people, and becomes pretty tight for the two of them when flaking the rope and setting up a rappel.

You can rap each pitch with a single 70M rope, but given that you must do some traversing and searching to find the anchors at the top of pitches 3 and 4, it would be wise to tie the ends of the rope and/or use an autoblock during your rappel.
By slim
Administrator
Feb 2, 2009

you suggest not climbing the 6th pitch if there are parties climbing below you? perhaps they should have woke up earlier, or maybe picked a different route?
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 6, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

i would suggest that no one climb the 6th pitch...ever. its loose, crappy climbing that doesnt serve any purpose. stop at the top of 5, which also happens to be the best pitch on the route.
By Wolfski
From: slc, ut
Apr 14, 2009

did this with one 60 meter rope. Not recommended but was able to pull it off with a sketchy rap on Pitch 5 (required reaching down and clipping into anchors on pitch 4, maybe extend your rappel device and this will help). then required about 10 feet of easy down climbing to get to pitch 1 anchors.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 13, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I have tried rappelling with a single 60m rope and it didn't work....even with a 190lb person on the end to aid with rope stretch. Rapping from the top of pitch 5 left my partner dangling 4-5 above the anchor. Even with knots tied in the end of the rope it wasn't a super pleasant experience (neither was jugging back up the rope). As vegastrad says though, a 70m would seem fine.
Cheers.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Nov 16, 2009

Great route. But the popularity strains the anchor/rappel arrangement. We were one of five parties, and an alternate rappel route would have been a big bonus.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Dec 9, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun, mellow route but WAY TOO CONGESTED!!!! We were the first folks there the morning we did it. By the time we rapped we passed 6 parties (on a 5 pitch climb!!!!). I mean, it was a really fun route but not THAT good!!!! If you see people hanging off like grapefruit, go somewhere else and climb some other super cool route. Ive heard there are a few around...
By Richard Shore
Apr 17, 2010

easy to do with a single 60m. Only have to downclimb about 10' in an easy chimney section on P2. Single 60m gets you to the anchors on every other pitch. Fun route, but a bit of a monotonous jug-haul the whole way.
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
May 4, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Only two double length runners are required for the third pitch one at the bolt and at the next pro placement. All other placement can be protected with regular length runners.

If your not careful rope drag on the fourth pitch can be worse then the third pitch. (A party a head of us learned that the hard way.)

Do anything short of killing your partner for the fifth pitch. If that does not work, demand pitches 1, 2 and 3. Let him take pitches 4 and 5.

Pitch 1 is fun, pitch 2 for 5.7 is thought provoking, pitch 3 is fun and interesting, not as runout as it looks. The crux of pitch 4 is route finding, if in doubt head right and up (look for a horizontal seam). The start of pitch 5 does not look special, but once above the roof it is a great pitch.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 23, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As of 11/23/10, the loose rock at the top of the third pitch is no longer present. The rock below the loose rock has some scarring and a significant amount of sand/dust from the rockfall. If climbing this route in the next few days, be aware of this- extra pro and helmets are advised.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 24, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climb, but incredibly crowded -- even on a weekday. Reminds me of Yogi Berra's quote, "Nobody goes there anymore...it's too crowded." Started in the "cave" and did the right crack on the 1st pitch. Bad idea -- one spot in the crack ate my rope on the way up, heinous drag. Loved the third pitch.
By Jeremy Taylor (JT)
From: NV
Apr 15, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Cool Route B. I had alot of fun. I think my favorite part was the P3 traverse, but there shouldn't have been a bolt there, i placed a nice TCU in the undercling (which i took out after i looked up and left) That would have been spicy. Great job. Well traveled (no less than 5 teams on the route the whole day, and one of them ate my sandwinch out of my pack, Grrrrrr)
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 20, 2011

This route is great, but the last two belays are not crowd friendly -- just two bolts without much of a stance. The last belay in particular is a hanging belay except for the leader who gets the foothold. To pass the people coming up, we rapped from the top of 4 all the way to 2 with two 60m ropes. A clever ploy until our ropes got hung up on the way down. We also got the rope hung up on the rap from the top of p 2, and others got ropes hung up on the p 1 rap. Recommend you pull your knots over the lip (or better, borrow a 70m rope).
By Mike Caruso
May 4, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route. Route finding was easy and climbing rarely gets harder than 5.6. P2 was the most sustained (aerobic)and P5 built up to a nice final crux. I think the most run out it gets is on the P2 offwidth moves. P3 can be sewn up with nuts and a #3 camalot before the bolt and with nuts after and above the bolt. I agree that the bolt is not needed. P4 & 5 have gear placements when you need them. We only had one group in front of us and had the climb to ourselves once they rapped by. We rapped cleanly, but there are many features to grab your rope.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Oct 27, 2011

Climbed this today as a group of three. Was beautiful day, route is fun and interesting for a new leader. I felt the pro opportunities were pretty spaced out on pitch four. The climbing is 5.6ish through this section, but the route is bit ambiguous at this point and it feels like you are climbing into the unknown until the anchors finally pop into view. We rapped with double 60's which was a huge pain in my ass managing all that rope at the hanging belays up top while trying to rap past other parties. Our ropes did not get stuck. Good route.
By Matt Bay
Nov 23, 2011

Climbed Birdland this past weekend. A single 60M rope DOES NOT work. A group above us rapping down from pitch 5 did not reach the pitch 4 anchors and it created a real mess!
By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Dec 8, 2011

Do these 'land (frogland, birdland) have anything to do with all those 'land gunk's routes (disneyland, ect)?

Sure dont look like gunks routes...
By Eric-D
From: Las Vegas, nv
Oct 29, 2012

There is a chockstone ready to fall out half way up the second pitch. It seems somewhat secure when pushed down but I gave it a lite tap upwards and it moved very easily. It's about 1' around and large enough to be serious.
By Mike Hill
Nov 20, 2012

Great climb. Didn't do the 6th pitch because of the comments from other climbers that it wasn't worth it. We rapped the whole route with one 70M rope. The 5th pitch is the toughest right at the end of the pitch. Don't go firing up for the last hold that looks like a ledge. It's not a ledge.

The rap down from the 3rd pitch can eat your rope. Throw your rope out as far as you can to keep it from falling into the crack. When you pull it make sure you try to whip it out away from the wall. This is hard when there are a bunch of people climbing below you.

As someone said before the approach is easiest if you go past the wall and double back up the switch backs. It's a lot longer approach than the 30 minutes in the guidebook. More like an hour over some tough terrain.

Very enjoyable route.
By Canon
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The very end of P5, basically the last move before the anchor, has a loose rock in the left handhold. We would have tossed it, but there were people below us somewhere. Rapped down no problem with a 70m, passing another party coming up to the P2 belay. Passing people at the higher belays could causes quite the interesting traffic jam. Good intro route for the area.
By Ashley allard
From: Las Vegas, nv
Jan 6, 2013

Climbed this today and had a blast. Had a bit of a chilly start at 7am but as the sun hit the wall the temp was perfect. On the way down we rapped past a couple parties from Phoenix.
By C. Archibald
Mar 24, 2013

Really fun and varied route. I led all the pitches. P5 is the crux, but P3 is the most fun. If I were fighting for one of the leads, definitely P3.

Also, we were climbing on 60m half ropes. We were able to rappel from the top of P5 to the top of P3. It was a rope stretcher, but it worked. Only issue was the rope got snagged a few times. Definitely tie knots in the rope if you attempt this.
By GJV
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climb!! Rock can be somewhat brittle on the first pitch. The third pitch traverse and the last 25 feet of pitch 5 are awesome IMO!! We climbed on a 70 meter rope and I was glad that we did not have two 60's with a knot when we started to rap. Quite a few snag hazards when pulling. If you have a 70, I would use it on this climb and save yourself some hassel. Great day!!
By mojojojo
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 28, 2013

Climb this on Saturday, use a suppose to be 70m rope (which I tihnk it was only 60M), but I think the rope was short. cause when we were rapping down from P5 to P4, we are 5' short to anchor. I end up down climb to P4 anchor.
then again on P3 to P2, and P2 to P1.

Also, find a stopping stuck in the crack on P3 right after the traverse. if that's yours, email me and descripe it, and i will get it back to you.
By musicDave
From: Blacksburg
Mar 13, 2014

It is easy to get your ropes stuck on the rappel. We got one of our twin ropes stuck today (March 13). Luckily there was another party and they let us go down on their rope. We are heading back tomorrow morning to get our green/yellow rope.
By TonyTheClimber
Mar 21, 2014

Great Route! That finger crack at the top was awesome. The only thing that wasn't awesome was that I dropped my brand new FiveTen Anasazi Verde left shoe from the top and watched it bounce down the wall. We didn't know where it landed (or if it did) and so it couldn't be found. If you find it, e-mail tonytheclimber@gmail.com. Other than that it was an amazing route and an amazing day.
By Jon Booth
May 1, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The rappels for P5 & P4 can be combined with 60m doubles. Knot the ends- there will only be 1m of extra rope!