Bird of Fire 5.10a
| 13,679 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | John Long & Ray Ochoa, May 1974 |
| Submitted By: | Mike Kidner on May 14, 2002 |
| |
At the jug
Add Photo Printer View
Description Climb the stellar finger-small hands crack to the slightly bulging finish. Nice ledge just below the final 8 feet or so to rest on and get psyched out. You can see the big chalk mark from the ground. Throw in some good pro here and fire it up. There is a 2 bolt anchor/rap (3/8") located just right of the top of this climb. Rap back to base w/one rope (70').
Protection Apart from the blank first 8-10 feet the pro is beautiful, a rack of nuts, and cams to gold Camalot size will have you sorted.
Bird of Fire. Photo Credit Alex Cooper.
| Brett at the crux.
| Mike Kidner heads up Bird Of Fire. Photo: Shana La...
| John Dubrawski on Bird of Fire. Photographer: Davi...
| Sewing it up...
| BETA PHOTO: "Bird Of Fire". Photo by Blitzo.
| Placing the last piece before firing the crux!
| Blooming joshua tree and climber on "Bird of Fire"...
| zeke styling the Bird of Fire
| Dave sends! Killer route!
| Court on the beautiful BoF line. November 2009
| one of my favorite climbs!
| beautiful line!
| approach to bird of fire
| andy sending the crux of bird of fire
| Amy ROCKIN this Quality Route
| Bird of fire Christmas day 1985
| |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Jun 11, 2004 rating: 5.10a
| Outstanding route for everyone. If your new or timid to leading, this is a great TR (as I did it the first time). For those that have a handle on leading, it will require a bit of courage for the beginning section but the balance of the climb boasts excellent rest stances and bomber pro. Go for the Rubicon afterwards if you cruise it. |
By Anonymous Coward Feb 13, 2005
| Ernest Sierras from eastern Switzerland.This was my 2nd try, successful redpoint. It is a beautiful straight forward route. I think more important than the climb itself is was there a good energy that given moment? I did try rubicon after I got spanked. The energy remaind the same it will be there next time. |
By Anonymous Coward Jun 28, 2005
| Such a good line. The rock is some of the best in the park. I had a hard time milking a good rest out of the last stance, before the business. Maybe better to fire in pro and blast it? Definitely a climb I'd want to bring with me to a deserted island. |
By Locker From: Westminster, CO Jun 29, 2005
| I have not done this one in quite some time. But I have to totally agree that it is one I would wish to have with me anywhere and anytime. And the rock? Yeah!!! That shit is on the money up there on Isles in the Sky. Most if not all of the routes there are a blast!!! Even the easiest... |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Mar 21, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| AC wrote..."I had a hard time milking a good rest out of the last stance, before the business. Maybe better to fire in pro and blast it?" As Vogel states, "if in doubt, run it out!" Remember that mantra |
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Apr 23, 2006
| Instant Classic in my book. Just spent a week in JTree and this route definitely topped the list. Can't wait to go back next year and do it again. |
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO May 14, 2006 rating: 5.9+
| Great climb. Once past the bouldery start, the climb eats gear. |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Nov 3, 2006
| Great line and fun. Just before the top out a gold Camalot works like a dream. Unlike the description...a 60m rope works fine from the top anchors. Although, I recommend extending it over the lip due to wear. Fun and must do! ~Susan |
By J pee From: Capitola, CA Nov 7, 2006
| This is a great line. Good lead for the rook tradster looking to break into the 5.10 level. I remember lots of good gear past the first 10 feet (which has a flat landing if you pop off). I do recall a lot of face holds to crimp and stand on. Some I remember to sound very hollow (especially nice hold before final bulge) and might not always be there. Worthy of many laps! |
By tony grice Nov 10, 2006
| The start is kinda scary. |
By armando fimbrez From: rancho cucamonga Feb 27, 2008
| A classic John Long route. A beautiful line. Delicate moves up aways before getting in pro. Takes great gear after that. Fell at the top the first time I did it back in Oct 2006. Fun clean fall. Now I can get it without fallen. Enjoy this beautiful Gem. |
By Shipp From: laguna beach, ca May 15, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b
| Did this climb yesterday. It was hot - our last trip to Josh for the season. The bottom - You're about 12' off the deck before you can get any pro in. Be careful here - it's an ankle buster. one 10a move after the traverse in. The middle - nice climbing on good rock w/ excellent protection - mostly 1" or less. The top - right before the top gets steep there are about two 5.10a/b moves to a decent stance and good finger lock. Place pro here as high as possible then fire the top. The steep section is 5.9 at best and is a lot of fun. |
By Cory From: Boise, ID May 24, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| Wow this climb was fun! I climbed up on good holds to the right of the main crack for a short ways to where I could place a good nut. Then downclimbed a few moves, and with the pro over my head the tricky move getting into the main crack wasn't bad. The middle portion is fun moderate climbing and has great stances for placing gear. The moves getting to the final stance before the bulge were a little tricky, but I was surprised to find that the crack at the bulge widens to perfect hands and there are jugs galore! Just as I was expecting the climb to get harder it got easier! In short, the pro is great and the climbing is awesome, go do this route!!! |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Aug 19, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| Reardon soloing it, naked! Hahaha
|
By Eric T. From: St. Augustine, Florida Sep 27, 2011
| Classic! One of my new favorite lines at Josh. On my first attempt I tried to plug a #3 BD at the top to protect the top out, not knowing it was all jugs. Got pumped in the process and took a nice, fun 15 footer on a .4 BD. Ignored the big cam at the top the second time and finished on the jugs no problem. So fun! |
By Jim21 Mar 31, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| One of my favs! I followed but plan to lead it next time I'm back in J-tree |
By Souljah Apr 26, 2012
| Everything a leader could ask for - this great line delivers. One of those routes you will want to revisit with a friend who hasn't experienced it yet. |
By Nelson Day From: Victorville, CA Jan 7, 2013 rating: 5.10a
| Excellent climb! One of the best .10s I've been on in the park. Has really excellent movement and good position. The first 60 feet (minus the initial start) feels like 5.9 or 5.8+. You really don't get into the .10 section until the very top, so you have plenty of gear below you. And you finish with a "thank god" jug. Excellent! Great climb for those breaking into .10 in the park, I would say. Take a lot of thin gear, up to a #2 (I placed down low), maybe one #0 master cam. I placed several pieces in the 0.5 range. Grey alien at the top along with a 0.5 C4. I placed my orange master cam down lower too. Really pumpy placing the 0.5 at the top jug... Leave the #3 C4 - you won't place it. Nuts work well in a lot of places. The direct start (straight up) is a little headier with no pro below you, but goes well. |
By doblackj Feb 26, 2013
| Last Monday (2/18) I was climbing at Isles in the Sky in Joshua Tree (Bird of Fire Area). A father and son team were climbing the route next to us (Dolphin) and they accidentally mistook my Katanas for theirs. If you have them please respond to this post. |
By Rolf Rybak From: Vancouver BC Apr 4, 2013
| 5.10 A. crux at the start ,but there are a couple of options. Solid jams all the way up with good gear. Wonderful hand jams at the top! Some may want to rope up for the approach, and bring a long piece of webbing to rap out. |
|