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High in the woods west of the Quarry, this is probably the best known outcrop in the area, largely because the American Dream Roof is such an unusual problem for the Lake. There are several other nice, moderate routes around the corner to the left. However the descriptions given in Swarting veer toward the contrived (i.e. "avoid using the lower right corner"), which I find aesthetically unsatisfying (I guess I'm more of a mountaineer than a boulderer). If you are willing to ignore the rules, there are at least 4-5 fun routes here.
The easiest approach is probably to hike from the group camp area. See the notes to the West of the Quarry section.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Bird-Foot Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bird-Foot Buttress:
American Dream Roof 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad
Featured Route For Bird-Foot Buttress
American Dream Roof 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Bird-Foot Buttress
There was a photo of American Dream Roof that hung above the bar at the now-defunct Conway's Pub. Inspired by the photo, many beer addled climbers hatched plans to hike out and climb ADR only to see those plans evaporate when the hangover set in. If you do make it out there, ADR is a must-do DL lead. American Dream Roof climbs the conspicuous overhang on the right side of the buttress. Start up the easy inside corner and traverse to the roof. From here, place your entire rack of cams under the ...[more] Browse More Classics in WI
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