Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Camp Bird Road
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems T 
Bird Brain Boulevard T 
Cavegina S 
Chock Up Another One T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Choppo's Chimney T 
Cinnamon and Cider S 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  T 
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds T 
Dumpster Diver S 
Fistful of Steel S 
Fractured Fairytales T 
Going Retro S 
Goldline S 
Hairy Devil T 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T 
Killer Pillar T 
Local Scoop, The S 
M6 Corner T 
M7 Crack T 
Maid to Order S 
Mile 4 S 
Negligent Behavior T 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) T 
Ribbon, The T 
Rusty Cage T 
Senator Gulch T,TR 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte S 
Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bird Brain Boulevard 

WI5 M6

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 7 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus: WI5 M5 [details]
FA: Fowler, Lowe, Wilford, 1985
Season: November through March
Page Views: 12,737
Submitted By: Todd Ritter on Dec 11, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Soloing ended at the scary looking cicle. Fracture...

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

BBB is a 1200' route up a prominent chimney, 200 yards right of The Ribbon. The best view of the route can be had by walking 50 yards west of the Skylight area parking. From this vantage point, you can look straight into the chimney/slot. The route is a bit of classic alpine groveling, a little rock, a little ice, and frozen moss when you can get it. From the top of the route, head east for 40 yards to the first of many trees with slings. About 7 rappels with double ropes to the base.

Pitch one: 70m, S3, WI3. Snowy rock gully, finally some ice. A #3 Friend in the left wall of the chimney for the belay, 30' below huge chockstone. A touch of easy simu-climbing will get you there.

Pitch two: 55m, WI4+. Steep, somewhat rotten, ice step behind huge chockstone. If the ice went to the top of the steep bit it would be straightforward. Since the ice stops a body length shy, it's chimney mode on rock to pull through, a great indicator for what's to come. Climb cruiser ice to the belay on the left side of the cave/alcove.

Pitch three: 55m, WI4, M5. Step down and right from belay, then up slender pillar. Snowy rock, ice, and chimneying leads over three chockstone/roofs. #3.5 Friend and a medium/large stopper in final roof before belay. There are two fixed pins at the top of this pitch on the left wall for the belay.

Pitch four: 45m, WI4+/5. Steep, easier-than-it-looks ice in the left-facing corner (fixed standard angle in right wall), then easy ice with occasional steep sections-all good. Belay off screws below iced up chimney.

Pitch five: 35m, WI4. Move up the iced cleft, then cruiser (this is the stuff you came for) ice to the belay below rotten rock roof.

Including our descent in the dark, from a timing perspective, this was the halfway point of our day.

Pitch six: 40?m, WI5, M6. A circuitous pitch, it might be better to break this up after the right traverse. Go up steep, easy ice, then walk right across ledge. Continue up vertical, broken corner with frozen moss and frozen rocks, with a smattering of ice here and there - the real deal. You can get some gear in questionable rock before traversing back left to chimney. We fixed a pin near the end of the traverse. Think happy thoughts when you clip it. Belay in chimney.

Pitch seven: 60m, 5.8. There is just enough ice to warrant keeping your crampons on and tools available. Chimney up past a steep chockstone (with your back against right wall) to cruiser snow. Where chimney closes down again, there was a fixed angle in roof. Step left, then back right into offwidth, then more chimneying until standing on two chockstones. Turn so your back is on left wall, and exit out and right into daylight (in our case, not much).

This is a very cool route, the sixth pitch is far and away more necky than anything else on the route.

Protection 

#2-#8 wallnuts, yellow and red alien, friends 1.5 through 4, long kb, bugaboo, baby angle, 8-Qd's, 4 runners, webbing or perlon for raps. 3-10cm, 3-13cm, 2-17cm screws.


Photos of Bird Brain Boulevard Slideshow Add Photo
Pat emerging from the run out chimney at the end of pitch 6.
Pat emerging from the run out chimney at the end o...
Pat McCarthy coming up pitch 2.
Pat McCarthy coming up pitch 2.
Chimneying/ice climbing in the beginning of pitch 5.
Chimneying/ice climbing in the beginning of pitch ...
Two unknown climbers on Birdbrain, 2-7-07.
BETA PHOTO: Two unknown climbers on Birdbrain, 2-7-07.
Dusk over Ouray from the top of the climb.
Dusk over Ouray from the top of the climb.
Start of pitch 1 with entire route in the perspective.
Start of pitch 1 with entire route in the perspect...
BBB as of Feb 04 2007. We marked the belays and gear used for anchors. The belay on pitch 3 was more convenient above the two pins mentioned in the description.
BETA PHOTO: BBB as of Feb 04 2007. We marked the belays and ge...
BBB is the cleft to the right of the Ribbon.  Tough to see what's in the upper pitches until you get there.
BBB is the cleft to the right of the Ribbon. Toug...
BBB, ice on the start of the 4th pitch.
BBB, ice on the start of the 4th pitch.
Kurt Ross leading P4 with sparse ice. December 2011.
Kurt Ross leading P4 with sparse ice. December 201...
BBB, Carl Pluim on the 5th pitch ice.
BETA PHOTO: BBB, Carl Pluim on the 5th pitch ice.
BBB, Carl Pluim on the Cave pitch, as you can see, plenty of ice up high!
BBB, Carl Pluim on the Cave pitch, as you can see,...
5.8 section on the last pitch.
5.8 section on the last pitch.
Looking down one move away from the top of BBB. Classic!
Looking down one move away from the top of BBB. Cl...

Comments on Bird Brain Boulevard Add Comment
Show which comments
By Todd Ritter
From: Lafayette
Dec 19, 2004

I just did BBB on 12-11-04. While I never felt it was too difficult, I agree with the overall rating of M6 WI5 in Jack Roberts' book. The first M6+ crux seemed easy, the vertical crack and traverse back left much harder. I'm the A.C. who submitted the route description-I didn't feel its a "highway year". If looking for an additional challenge, try leaving the old webbing and leaver biners on the rap route.
By slobmonster
Dec 20, 2004

I think you have to keep in mind the era in which BBB was first climbed, in addition to the style that was current, in order to rationalize its grade. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to remember reading that Jeff Lowe and Mark Wilford climbed the Boulevard for a photo shoot, displaying the former's then new clothing line, Latok.

I climbed the route Thanksgiving Day 2000, topped out in the dark, got really scared and cold, and somehow made it back to the snow, with one working headlamp. A dark and cloudy night, I erred in thinking that, due to a faint light somewhere down there, that one of my friends was waiting for me in the parking lot, when it was in fact the dome light in the trunk of my car, that I had foolishly left on.

Needless to say, there certainly wasn't much if any fixed gear or a "rap route." It's mostly bushes and trees, if I recall.

Why complain about the grade being a wee bit soft? Christ, accept the modest sandbagging as keeping away the hordes.
By slobmonster
Dec 22, 2004

Car started. Dropped K.C. (Boss? Where are you?) at his car in Ouray. Mind you, he led all the hard stuff anyway, I was a bit spooked. I think that we got the first seasonal ascent, and having knocked off the crux column (P3? 4?) it was by no means easy. Really long pulls when there's not really any ice to speak of.

My brain still occasionally sizzles. Talked to a good friend yesterday, he was up on BBB sometime last week and says it went great; maybe it's slightly more straightforward this year. But then, I don't know, as I am in Cali.

Best to all on the Front Range.
By Spanish John
Jan 27, 2006

NO M6 on this route, even when there is no ice. M6 equates to about 5.9+ or 10a, none of that on this route at all. It was ground breaking when it was established, pretty moderate these days. Most of route is 5.8R chimney climbing, pretty secure. Just remember, it was soloed super fast in a lean year seven or eight years ago, and climbed with a bottle of wild turkey while knock down stinking drunk last year, just to put it in perspective, still fucking classic though.
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Dec 6, 2010
rating: WI5 M5-

Climbed BBB Saturday Nov 27th with Carl Pluim. Not much ice until the first sublimated column on the start of pitch 3. The rest of the route was is great condition. The traverse on the cave pitch, back into the squeeze chimney we experienced a fairly large rockfall, maybe 200 lbs. The rope was dragging on the right side of the chimney causing the rockfall. Luckily nobody else on the route this particular day!

Last time we climber the route was 2006, conditions were considerably more runout Dec. 2010. No one move was much harder, but if looking down 25 foot at your last piece of sketchy gear is not your idea of a good time, you might wait for a different year?
By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Dec 26, 2011
rating: WI5 M5

The route has gotten cleaned up. No more tat or any signs of anchors (pins and etc.). Keep that in mind when getting on it. It has definitely been restored to the FA type of route now. More commiting as I see it. Super classic!