|Middle Cathedral Rock
This is a five pitch line left of Central Pillar of Frenzy. I have only tried the first pitch, which can be toproped after descending the rappels for Central Pillar. The first pitch is thin climbing up a clean dihedral, leading to a short section of off-width that is easier than it may look. The crux is obvious as the finger crack peters out, and you have to negotiate 20 feet of extremely strenuous stemming on glassy feet. Consider the use of the arete out right if you are tall. There are two pins in the crack, and you can get some small cams, but still a heady lead. The remaining four pitches look interesting, although I have not tried them.
Directly left of Central Pillar, and follows the final rappel pitch for that route.
Small gear (doubles) (offset Aliens, micro cams, lowe-balls) up to 3". Perhaps a #4 Camalot for the wide crack. Pitch one can be toproped from the rappel anchors with a 70 m rope (although you just barely reach the ground with rope stretch so be careful not to lower your partner off the end!)
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 5, 2014
Lower pin is gone. The scar takes fine gear.
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
1st pitch easier if taller, fixed pins when we did it. Don't be scared, fire it. Fabulous! Need to go back for the rest sometime...
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 13, 2008
"11b: all-time sandbag"
More people should write such Concise comments. That fun eh?
|By Rob Dillon|
Oct 24, 2008
It doesn't have to be 'fun', to be fun, right?
What was truly not that great was watching Mama Bear introducing her cub to the joy of pack-raiding at the base as we sorted helplessly through our tangled rap lines. Probably best to hang your gear a few pieces up on the off chance you've ever kept food in there.
From: Golden, CO
May 10, 2009
Yes, we had a similar experience with a bear but managed to scare it away.
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 18, 2010
1st pitch crux is getting slicker due to people descending from Frenzy.
Upper pitches are SICK! but also sandbagged, thin, and a little vegetated. Go up the corner to another set of rap bolts (pitch 2) up the corner for another pitch (more rap bolts out right). Then cut left of onto the face doing a rising traverse to change corner/crack systerms. This pitch has bomber Rap bolts above the "11c lunge left" (was not a lunge) the remainder of the route looked to vegetated to be worth it.
as of 9/18/10 beware of small wasp hive near the end of the of the second pitch (2nd pitch in the Falcon Guide) They were friendly and didn't sting, just surprising.